UKC

Russians receive Piolet d'Or

The Russian big wall team received this year's Piolet d'Or (The Golden Ice Axe) for their first direct ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7710 m), Himalaya. The award is decided by an international committee on behalf of French-based Montagnes Magazine and is widely considered the most prestigous prize in mountaineering. The eleven member expedition climbed vertical to overhanging rock, snow and ice over two months, summitting on May 26 last year. They rated the route grade VI, 6c (Russian), A3+ (aid), WI4 (ice), M6 (mixed), 2100m.

The people's choice award went to American Steve House for his solo climb of a new route on the south-west face of K7, Pakistan.

Other nominated climbs were the Spanish ascent of The Magic Line on K2 (which earlier won the Spanish equivalent of the award), Frenchman Jean Christophe Lafaille's solo ascent of the South Face of Shisha Pangma, Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj's Johan's Route on the south face of Aconcagua, the Italian Linea di Eleganza on the north-east face of Fitz Roy (Patagonia) and an American route Arctic Rage on the east face of Moose's Tooth (Alaska).


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