UKC

Rodden and Caldwell repeat El Cap's Nose, Free

© LankyPaddy
The rumours started flying several days ago at Supertopo.com that Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell had climbed El Cap's Free Nose. It was slipped out in a post by Werner Braun (Mr. Astroman) on the Supertopo forums. Now it's official.....well, as posted by Chris McNamara (Mr. Supertopo himself) via Hans Florine (Mr. El Cap speed ascent guru). The pair did a 'team free' ascent, each leading about half the pitches, with Caldwell leading the crux "Changing Corners' pitch (5.14a) and Rodden doing the stopper 'Great Roof' pitch (5.13c).

The Free Nose was first climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993, which she then did all-free-in-a-day in the following year. No-one is really sure of the grade, it ranges from 5.13b to 5.14a but it has stopped many top climbers in their tracks especially the 'Great Roof' pitch which is said to require 'small hands'. Another American Scott Burke did climb the Free Nose, but on his ascent he top roped, rather than led, the'Great Roof' pitch. The debate will no doubt rage about whether Rodden and Caldwell's ascent is the second or third. What isn't in doubt is the significance of their achievement, both Beth and Tommy have climbed El Cap free via Lurking Fear, Dihedral Wall, Muir Wall and the Salathé, as well as pioneering hard sport routes like Caldwell's Flex Luthor 5.14d and Rodden's The Optimist 5.14b. You can view some images of Rodden and Caldwell preparing for their free ascent of the Nose at Hans Florine's website

And this just in from Chris McNamara as of Oct 17th 9.00pm USA ET, "right now tommy is on the wall trying to climb it free in a day.."


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17 Oct, 2005
Memo to UKC News team: ... to save you time I've already dug out some inappropriate and spurious photos you could steal to illustrate your news item (*): http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=23737 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=2742 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34842 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18586 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17987 * in line with your recent Dai Koyamada reportage ...
17 Oct, 2005
Not to be a kill joy but wasn't Scott Burks ascent the second free ascent?
17 Oct, 2005
As far as I knew too...
17 Oct, 2005
He never managed to lead the Great Roof pitch free.
17 Oct, 2005
FRom the supertopo post (Billygoat) "Secondly, Tommy is not the first male to free the nose. Scott Burke was the first male to free the nose. Yes, he did the Great Roof on toprope on his final ground up ascent, but how much should this really matter? He had previously led the pitch (no falls). Durring his ascent the pitch was wet and crowded, so to speed things up he TRed the pitch. Questions that remain unaswered: did Tommy and Beth each lead every pitch??? Or did they do a Skinner style ascent??? Or did they swing leads??? "
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