Skipping Clips on Maestri's “Compressor Route”, Cerro Torre

by Dougald MacDonald Climbing magazine Feb/2007
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Cerro Torre ascents, 62 kbThe Southeast Ridge (Compressor Route)
Americans Zack Smith and Josh Wharton made a bold attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre in Patagonia without using the protection bolts that were power-drilled by Cesare Maestri during his 1970 attempt on the granite needle. Maestri's “Compressor Route” has become the standard route on the mountain, but it relies on hundreds of feet of artificial bolt ladders.

On February 18, Smith and Wharton climbed the ridge without clipping any protection bolts until the route's 400-foot final headwall.

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