UKC

Austrian solos 900m 7b+ in Dolomites

© GDes
On 29/04 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer (23) carried out the second solo ascent of the legendary Via attraverso il Pesce (aka The Fish) on the south face of the Marmolada, the Dolomites, after Maurizio Giordan's 1990 ascent (who self-belayed on some pitches). This is the first free solo without ropes.

900 metres, with difficulties up to Fr 7b+, 33 pitches in 2 hours 55 minutes.

Auer said:

"During my solo though the most demanding pitch turned out to be the first of the hardest pitches. The pitches after the niche are steeper and every now and then there are some single finger pockets which need to be locked deep. Difficulties ease off above the ledge, but the quality of the rock deteriorates. The actual climbing is often highly uncompromising and requires great determination."

Full report, interview and photos at Planet Mountain


This post has been read 4,058 times

Return to Latest News


25 May, 2007
'Kin ell. That's gobsmacking. Given the reputation this route has, and experience on neighbouring routes, that's just an amazing effort.
25 May, 2007
AND in 2 hrs 55 mins! AND 3 years ago he couldnt even redpoint it! AND only spent 5 hours on the route on an ab rope previously!
25 May, 2007
I've got sweaty palms just looking at the picture. Need chalk!!!!
25 May, 2007
Really is an astounding ascent, congrtulations on it. People wondering about getting in the zone and what it is should read the article, being there for a route that long takes some doing.
25 May, 2007
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email