The Anglo-Canadian team of Luisa Giles, Sarah Hart, and Jacqueline Hudson has established a 3,000-foot free route on a 17,000-foot rock spire near the base of Latok III in Pakistan. The three women completed The Partition (TD 5.10b, 900 meters) on their third attempt in a three-day round trip from base camp on the Choktoi Glacier. The trio climbed the east face of the right-hand of two twin buttresses, with 19 pitches and about 300 meters of simul-climbing. They opted to end their climb at a subpeak, about 100 horizontal meters away from the highest point, because the traverse to the slightly higher peak would have required loose, unpleasant climbing and a different descent than planned.
Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.
Yep - didn't she have an amusingly combative style? There was something slightly controversial about her post anyway... perhaps she just felt E0 was crap and told Fiend so! :-) A fine effort anyway. It's a great looking line on fine lump of rock. 5.10b - I could even do that.... oh dreams, dreams... they get you through the day.
It did involve Fiend actually but I think it was because she claimed Parallel Piped at E4 (the guide grade) and Fiend called her on it as its really only E2. I wish I had a memory for useful stuff.
Yes she did seem to get into the odd scrape. Something to do with photos of her, or their labels, being somewhat self congratulatory? I have checked and her profile and pics no longer seem to be on UKC. Shame, as some of them were rather inspirational. Anyway, fine effort in a superb setting.
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