UKC

Chris Savage, 8b onsight in anger

© elmihu
Chris Savage, 26, from Bristol is having a good run on an extended climbing trip to Spain including 8b+/8c redpoints and on the 17th April an 8b onsight, Zona 0 at Siurana.

Chris was the Junior British Indoor Climbing Champion in 1998 and some may remember him out climbing Chris Sharma for the first ascent of Dark Horse a V11 at Black Mountain in California.

In March, climbing at Sella Wild Side, Chris redpointed two 8b+/8c's Dosis and Espacio Tiempo, and two 8b+'s Oceano and Septiembre.

He then moved to Siurana where he had one very memorable day. Chris takes up the story

"I had been working on Migranya 8b for a few days and wasn´t really enjoying the route as the pockets are so sharp. However, it started raining and Migranya is one of the few routes you can try in the rain. I pulled through the crux feeling pretty strong then on the most important clip my loyal belayer had a little trouble giving me enough slack to clip.

I managed to hold on long enough for her to sort out the knot in the rope. I got a bit worked up and I think this is what pulled me through the upper crux!

Having redpointed Migranya the rain stopped and I decided to just have a little play on Zona 0 another 8b ("40m realy nice climbing with a slapy crux in an awesome posision" says Chris on his 8a.nu scorecard). I somehow managed to slap my way through the crux and onsight the route. My best day of climbing to date."

We'll no doubt hear more from Chris as he is on a year-long climbing trip.


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2 May, 2008
Good job Chris, you defiantly made the 8b+ extension to the route i was doing look pretty easy at Sella and then to onsight that 8a+ just after made a pretty good day! Hope the van is still going well! Dave
2 May, 2008
Well done Chris, it was awesome to watch. Got us all psyched. Too bad it was on the last day of the trip!
Britsh Team Trails at the end of the year Chris.... hope you're back for them? Tom
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