Kevin writes on his blog, see below, and on the UKClimbing.com forums along with John Dunne, at this topic/thread
Grit Update 3: Success!
24 October 2008
Today was day two going ground up on Parthian Shot. On my forth attempt of the day, something
clicked and I stuck the move that has been shutting me down for about 12 attempts: an accuracy and
timing dependent dead-point to a pocket.
After sticking the pocket, I nervously matched feet and with curiosity felt the sloping dish that I had looked at so many times before while peeking over the edge from the top. While I was not thrilled with what it offered, I forced myself to continue. I high-stepped with my left foot and began the precarious rock over onto the slab. With such a slow, balance dependent move, I had several occasions to consider the fall. It took ages to stand up on the slab. I was thrilled to be able to reach the arete from the decent foot hold, but several smears were still required before I was safely on top. Luckily, everything stuck and I safely topped out! Psyched!
While this ascent was far from perfect, I am happy to have improved upon previous styles. The next step is a ground up ascent with all gear being placed on lead! Then, perhaps an onsight? Who knows!
Ascent Details:
Day 1:
Arrived at the crag to Ben Bransby going for it ground up as well............
READ MORE AT www.kevinjorgeson.com/Travels.pdf
Kevin is sponsored by Marmot, Asana Packworks, Sterling Rope,Black Diamond, Superfeet, Raw Revolution and Five Ten.
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