UKC

Adam Ondra - Open Air - His Hardest Yet

© Alex Huber
EDIT: PHOTOS AT: http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446

Yesterday Adam Ondra, the fifteen year old wonderkid from Brno in the Czech Republic, made the long awaited second ascent of Alexander Huber's 1996 route Open Air at Austria's Schleier Wasserfall.

The route took Ondra five days and nine attempts in total and he comments on his scorecard on 8a.nu that he feels it is his hardest ascent to date. The route was originally given F9a when first climbed by Huber but Ondra feels that with grade benchmarks having changed over the years, the route is more than worthy of the F9a+ tag. He says:

"When Alex Huber did it, Action Directe (was) considered as 8c+ , then 9a for this one was OK. Now when Action Directe is 9a, this should be 9a+."

On the same day Adam also on-sighted Long Island Ice-Tea and Überflieger, F8b and F8a+ respectively.

There have been various claims for the world's first 9a+ sport route, Orujo, Realization and the Rambla Extension, but if the grade sticks this could be the world's first.

Alex Huber recently spoke about about grades in an interview with Planet Mountain (UKC News - Nov 6),

"What I find curious is that still today most magazines, without hesitating, place Jumbo Love together with Akira and Chilam Balam. Had 9b been climbed in 1995, more than a decade ago therefore, then Chris Sharma's performance seems like a kindergarten!


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Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

Adam's Athlete Page 140 posts 51 videos



18 Nov, 2008
It's worth noting that Ondra has also done La Rambla 9a+ and a whole slew of 9a's and 8c+'s. He is one of the few, because of his experience and track record, who can safely judge and compare the difficulty and hence the grades of the hardest sport routes. In short, he ain't bullshitting. He has the experience. Also Huber established Om in 1992 (Triangel, Aus) - perhaps the second 9a after Action Directe....although given 8c+ by Huber, and Action Directe was given 8c+/9a by Gullich.
18 Nov, 2008
P )to think of what he could potentially achieve in years to come.
18 Nov, 2008
How scary is that?! Excellent performance though.
18 Nov, 2008
Wow - I wish I had 1/100th of his talent. Is Hr Huber tied in in that photo? If not, why not? Will Pn Ondra's phenomenal performance actually get worse as he grows (power:weight could decline)? But mostly "wow". J
18 Nov, 2008
Some people say he'll hit a growth spurt and he'll pack on muscle. I guess it could be beneficial or detrimental to his performance. And in reply to OP: WOW!
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