UKC

MacLeod Attempts Longhope Route on St John's Head, Hoy

© Jack Geldard
Dave MacLeod on the Longhope Route on St John's Head on Hoy  © Claire MacLeod
Dave MacLeod on the Longhope Route on St John's Head on Hoy
© Claire MacLeod

It wouldn't be right to have a Dave Birkett story without a Dave MacLeod report - they are after all only two of a handful of climbers operating at the cutting edge of trad climbing in the UK today. In the summer their passion and love for exploration takes hold and they can be guaranteed to be up to something exciting.

Dave B has just repeated an E9 and established another last great in the Lakes (UKC report) and it seems that Dave M is having to summon all his climbing power (power in the broadest sense meaning experience as well as fitness and strength) to free climb one of the biggest walls in the UK, the 500m (1,640ft) Longhope Route on St John's Head on Hoy.

Dave has written an account of his attempts so far, at his blog......

Walking off the hill from Kentallen last week after doing Durorband with unexpected ease, I felt that feeling of lightness, fitness and a readiness to climb something really hard that I've not felt so strongly since before climbing Echo Wall. I can't believe it's been a year since I really felt this. For sure, hard climbs can be done without it by pure force, but this state and this feeling is what's needed to break barriers.....the full story at davemacleod.blogspot.com


Dave MacLeod is sponsored by Gore-tex , Scarpa , Black Diamond and Mountain Equipment


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10 Aug, 2009
What the hell grade is that going to get? 23 pitches with possible 8c+ crux. Will be stunning when he does that.
11 Aug, 2009
Brilliant, another Dave M epic feat to follow. Looking forward to hearing the progress!
11 Aug, 2009
HXS 7a? Or would 5.14+ R be easier to understand for the masses?
11 Aug, 2009
Looks a complete epic - hats off to Dave for taking on such an outstanding challenge. As for the grade - how on Earth (why on Earth?) would you even bother trying? Reducing something like this to mere numbers would be a sacrilege.
11 Aug, 2009
Serious place, when you are on the old man you think it is big, then you look along to the main cliffs....the chopper from Schiehallion took us on a fly past there too, outstanding place and kudos to mr MacLeod...
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