More Lleyn Death-Choss For Stevie Haston

by Simon Panton / GroundUp Climbing Oct/2009
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The awesome Stigmata buttress of Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales, 216 kb
The awesome Stigmata buttress of Craig Dorys, Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor© Jack Geldard
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A month after climbing the outrageous routes, Bam, Bam (E7/8 6b) and Harmony (E7 6b/c) at Craig Dorys, Stevie Haston returned to North Wales to clean up some more unfinished business. A further two major lines were established on the same cliff, with the help of Leigh McGinley again.

The first to fall was Dream Canyon Handshake E7 6b, 6a, a wild and physically hard line up the steep ground right of Samarkand.

At one point I had to stop and have a word with myself. The climbing was very sustained 6b and I knew I must not fall

Stevie Haston on his new E8

The main event was yet to come; an astounding line that eclipses all previous routes on the cliff. Requiem for a Vampire E8 6b tackles the absurdly loose and steep ground between Bam, Bam and The Gross Clinic.

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British climber Stevie Haston is 52 years old and lives in France. He is a proud grandfather and has recently shaken the UK sport climbing scene by climbing F9a, as well as pioneering these bold and hard new routes on one of the most serious of British sea cliffs.

He is one of less than a handful of UK climbers to operate at this extremely high level, regardless of age.

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