Stanage Showing Signs Of Wear:
© Graham Hoey
"As you can see the brushing was pretty thorough..." remarked Graham looking at the famous line of Careless Torque.
Graham also sent pictures of the recently damaged flake of Right Unconquerable, the classic HVS first climbed by Joe Brown.
This perfect flake of gritstone had seen earlier damage (circa 10 years ago) when a car jack was reportedly used to try and remove a stuck cam. A new section of flake has been damaged, probably by a falling climber using a cam for protection. Obviously using cams is standard practice on gritstone and the climber involved is not to blame, but it is a stark reminder of the fragility of our classic routes.
The new damage has sparked a forum thread here on UKClimbing.
"I guess Right Unconquerable is holding up quite well really, given that its one of the most sought after ticks in the country. It's not the most solid rock on the crag - the top half has a tendency towards sandiness, so I'm not entirely surprised." commented local friction addict Adam Long, after looking at Graham's photographs.
However he was less understanding about some over-brushing and chalking on the classic highball problem Careless Torque, one of the most aesthetic lines on gritstone:
"To quote Bernard Manning: It's a fu*king disgrace." he said.
"I can't really understand how people can be so blinkered as to not realise this is unacceptable. I can only assume from the amount of chalk that the route was being tried whilst damp, and from a top-rope." commented Adam.
“Get your eyes tested”
He went on to describe different ways in which it is possible to minimise damage and visual impact on these classic and beautiful rock formations:
© Graham Hoey
This route has now received several ascents ground-up. This should now be the style others attempt it in. Not only is it far more satisfying for the individual, it also protects fragile routes by requiring a certain level of ability up front. The crux of Careless is the start; if you haven't done it you shouldn't be going anywhere near the top.
Tick marks are not damaging to the rock, but to most climbers, and walkers, I think they are undesirable and should be kept to a minimum and removed afterwards. These are way beyond that, most of them are entirely unnecessary to the point of being offensive. This is a piece of natural scenery - treat it with some respect. And get your eyes tested.
I'd encourage anyone who sees other climbers behaving like this to remonstrate with them. 'Foreigners' are often blamed for excessive tick-marks - if that's the case educate them. If the climbing community can't police itself there are other user groups who will be only too keen to do it for us."
There has been a discussion on over-chalking on Careless Torque a couple of years ago on UKBouldering.com.
Photo Gallery - Recent Damage to Stanage:
© Graham Hoey |
© Graham Hoey |
© Graham Hoey |
© Graham Hoey |
© Graham Hoey |
© Graham Hoey |
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