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Paul Robinson Climbs a Possible V16 - Font 8C+

© Wills Young - Bishop Bouldering Blog
Paul Robinson on his own problem - Lucid Dreaming V16  © Wills Young - Bishop Bouldering Blog
Paul Robinson on his own problem - Lucid Dreaming V16
© Wills Young - Bishop Bouldering Blog

American super-boulderer Paul Robinson has succeeded on the Rastaman Vibration Sit Start on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder in the Buttermilks, Bishop, Califonia.

He has named the problem Lucid Dreaming and proposed a grade of V16, making this one of the very hardest boulder problems in the world.

In the report on the Bishop Bouldering Blog the problem is described:

"This extreme problem with a crux move to gain and dyno from a small left-hand pinch at standing height, was disregarded as near-impossible by many top climbers--with only a handful ever sticking the dyno. The line, in full is thought to be at least v15 and Paul has suggested v16. Not only is the start extremely physical, but the topout up the slab left of Evilution adds a good deal of highballing spice to top it off! Certainly one of the most amazing ascents at the Buttermilks ever, and one of the world's hardest problems."

Paul has written his own blog post on the subject of the V16 grade and why he feels this climb should be graded that hard.

From Paul's Blog:

"This 2 move sequence truly was an epic for me. I fell on each of the move hundreds of times and the ability to link the two moves came after 12 days of patiently waiting for everything to be perfect. I know that these two moves joined together are the two hardest single moves in a row that i have ever done...

...I know that this climb may get downgraded by the second ascendant, however in my mind I know that this is BY FAR the 2 hardest move i have ever completed and in a way really marks a break through for me."


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1 Apr, 2010
Looks super-cool and super-super-hard, man. Makes me super-psyched ;)
1 Apr, 2010
hehehe :-p shame no video of it, would be interesting to see.
2 Apr, 2010
Two moves on perfect quartz-monzonite patina, golden brown in colour, tweaky rounded non-holds with a huge leap, then 60ft to the top of the boulder, would get some silly E number in the UK. It's been a long standing project and many of the world's best boulderers have tried those moves. A very significant ascent. Mick
2 Apr, 2010
I agree - a lot of hard stuff can be a bit obscure and untried but this looks like it's been pretty much right in front of everyone's faces for years.
2 Apr, 2010
As are lots and lots of significant potential problems and routes. They wait there, oft' attempted, until someone succeeds on them of the necessary calibre. In this case Paul Robinson.
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