UKC

Weekend warriors extraordinaires

© UKC News
If I were aspiring to make a 9something FA anywhere in Europe, and one day saw a car with Czech licence plates rolling into my town, my heart would sink... just a little. Especially of that project of mine was an ancient one, which hadn't seen a lot of traffic for the last decade or so. Adam Ondra seems to making a habit out of  opening those old projects.
A couple of days ago, he did just that at Cornalba, the Italian "crag of the future", where he made the FA of Goldrake, 9a+, a route bolted by Bruno "Camos" Tassi.
"incredible fight! 5th go, an old project on the right of Jedi, unfortunately two chipped holds on the start, but sick route! I am absolutely not sure about the grade, it is notorious dilema - 9a or 9a+. Just the same as so many other routes. But I decided to go for 9a+ with this one since it is pretty much my style and the send was really incredible fight"

Meanwhile at Oliana, Maja Vidmar managed to make a very impressive onsight of the 50m Humildes pa casa, 8b+ (originally 8c), a route that previously had only been climbed in this style by Ondra, Sharma and Marin. Not exactly bad company!

Sources: 9b, Planet mountain, Kairn, Maja's blog

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8 Apr, 2010
Hey, to be honest I don't know, but both Maja and Vicho Korleone call it 8b+. I'll look into it.
8 Apr, 2010
About Los Humildes pa casa, apparently you now climb an easier first part because of some recently found rock drawings.
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