2 8c+'s in a day, Pirmin's story

by Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2010
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Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos, 114 kb
Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos
© Pirmin Bertle

As reported in the previous post, after five weeks of horrible warmth and humidity in Kalymnos, Pirmin Bertle did the two 8c+'s Gora Guta Gutarak and Inshallah on the last day of the trip and the very first one with good conditions:

"Three times I was ready to give up. Give up all the tries I had made in the two routes, just because the weather wasn't changing. It was clinging to its 23 or more degrees and its 65% of humidity. For five long weeks. The only interruption was a two weeks period of wet routes because of heavy thunderstorms in the middle of November. But then one day, the forecast announced the 17° and for the very first time wind from the north. On the other hand this Sunday should be our last day in Kalymnos. The work on our book project would force us to take the ferry Monday morning, to leave for Antalya, Turkey.

Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos, 186 kb
Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos
© Pirmin Bertle

And the grip was really amazing. After not too few hopeless tries in the boulder crux of Gora... with its round tiny holds and the jump on the otherwise so soapy tufa suddenly was just right for the warm up (nearly ;). The technical 8a to the chain wouldn't and didn't stop me and so I had some reserves left for Inshallah.

The line is probably one of the best on the island with its homogeny and athletic roof climbing on all natural holds. But the first go was full of faults and horribly imprecise and ended up seven moves from chain.
Not like this!

Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos, 161 kb
Pirmin Bertle on Ishallah, 8c+, Kalymnos
© Pirmin Bertle
So I decided to try my luck in one last go after a proper rest – the last one for the day and as well for this trip. And with this excellent grip and in an excellent effort I even almost struggled my way out, but two moves from the chain I felt myself slipping out of the slopy, huge undercling. What a pity!
Too much a pity to be true, and so I brought up the very last of strength that was left in me from this 30 moves roof resistance and stopped the slipping in a tiny dull.
The victory was mine!
Unable to stop myself from crying and cheering I messed up my vocal cords. But never mind, there are not too many climbing days like this in life."

Now we have arrived in Antalya. Nice pleasant landscape and as well an interesting 8c+ ;).

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