UKC

The Céüse Report #1 2011

© Pringle coll.
Ethan Pringle aiding 3 degrees of separation  © Pringle coll.
Ethan Pringle aiding 3 degrees of separation
© Pringle coll.

As mentioned before, Summer is here and this means the Céüse season has officially started.

Yes, I know it started a while back and that Melissa Le Nevé, for example, got really close to doing Dave Graham's short and bouldery Bah, Bah, Black Sheep,~8c/+, before leaving for the World Cup in Canada and the US. She'll be back to claim her prize I'm sure.

So, what has actually been done?

Ethan Pringle, has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Le Cadre Nouvelle Version, ~9a, in the Biographie sector. This variation, which was bolted by Sylvain Millet and first climbed by Adam in September last year, avoids the four chipped holds on the original route by making a big loop to the left before rejoining the old route.

Not to be outdone, Arnoud Petit has managed to climb the 70m Black Bean, 8b+, using only nuts.

Yep, that's right. That's 8b+ on gear on limestone. Is that a first?

Source: Kairn

Ethan Pringle is sponsored by: Mountain Hard Wear, Sanuk, Metolius, Maxim ropes and Petzl.

Arnaud Petit is sponsored by: Petzl, Lafuma, Beal, La Sportiva and Entre Prises.


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1 Jun, 2011
So hold on, a 8b+ on trad gear? Man I would love to know the E grade of that
1 Jun, 2011
Arnaud Petit. ;) 8b+ on his nuts - that is indeed impressive.
1 Jun, 2011
Wasn't Muy Caliente given 8b+??
1 Jun, 2011
8b in the new CC guides
1 Jun, 2011
Depends how good the gear is and how frequent. Could be anywhere from E8 to E11 I guess.
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