UKC

Lucinda Whittaker Climbs F8b

© Sam Whittaker
Sheffield based climber Lucinda Whittaker has redpointed Austrian Oak (F8b) at Malham Cove, Yorkshire.

'The Oak', as it is sometimes known, was first climbed by John Dunne in 1988 and is a twelve metre power-endurance route on the 'Catwalk' - the lower ledge in the central area of Malham Cove.

Lucinda Whittaker on the 8b catwalk route of Austrian Oak  © Sam Whittaker
Lucinda Whittaker on the 8b catwalk route of Austrian Oak
© Sam Whittaker

Lucinda Whittaker and Sam Whittaker  © Lucinda Whittaker
Lucinda Whittaker and Sam Whittaker
© Lucinda Whittaker
It is described in the UKC Logbooks:

"Hard climbing on side-pulls and undercuts which is just too hard for the old grade of 8a+."

Earlier this spring Lucinda climbed Overnite Sensation (F8a+) also on the Catwalk at Malham.

Are these the first female ascents of both these routes?

Next on the list for Lucinda is a trip to the sandstone bouldering Mecca of Rocklands:

"I'm off to South Africa in four weeks so it's mad strength and power training now that the Oak is done! Psyched!" Lu told UKC.


Lucinda would like to thank Metolius and prAna at Beyond Hope - and Scarpa for their support.

Lucinda works at the Climbing Works in Sheffield and is available for climbing coaching.


 

 


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15 Jun, 2011
Am I the only one having trouble reconciling "twelve metre" with "endurance"?
15 Jun, 2011
Great effort from Lucinda - she must be one of our top female climbers but always seems to keep a relatively low profile. You've missed out the all-important "power-" there. Power-endurance is something completely different to stamina.
15 Jun, 2011
Its says 'power' endurance. Which describes the route perfectly. Have a read up and you will then see the big difference between the two.
15 Jun, 2011
Awesome ascent from Lucinda and proof, if it were needed, that girls can do burly routes. In the 12 metres it does weave right then back left and packs it in all the way including powerful moves where you dont gain any height at all. In that 12 metres my sequence has 27 hand moves and 49 feet moves not including clips. Approximately.
15 Jun, 2011
I think that speaks volumes :0) Really great to see so much good climbing going on at the moment from Brits at home and abroad.Inspiring stuff.
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