UKC

Russian New Route on Latok III

© Mountain.Ru
Report by Lindsay Griffin for the BMC:

The first major success of the 2011 Pakistan summer season fell to a team of four Russians, who have just made the first ascent of the West Face of Latok III (6,949m).

Climbing in capsule style, Evgeny Dmitrienko, Ivan Dozhdev, Alex Lonchinsky and team leader Alexander Odintsov spent from the 10th - 25th June ascending the left side of the c2,000m face, completing a line that Odintsov has tried twice before.

photo
The new line on Latok III
© Mountain.Ru

Full report by Lindsay Griffin on the BMC Website

Thanks go to Anna Piunova of Mountain.Ru for the photograph.

 


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8 Jul, 2011
Looks great. Anybody care to enlighten me on what 'capsule' style is?
8 Jul, 2011
Rather than establishing a series of camps on the mountain, once the next camp has been established you move everything up to it from the one below, then use that as a spring board for establishing the next camp, before moving everything up again. So you've always got the security of a camp below being in place to scuttle back to, but not a whole series of camps/ropes as per 'expedition style'. Capsule style is popular on big wall routes.
9 Jul, 2011
Thanks Tom, that's a great explanation which, despite my genuine overall interest in all things climbing, I had no idea about!
11 Jul, 2011
Have a read of Joe Tasker's Savage Arena - that gives a pretty clear view of what is involved.
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