UKC

Adam Ondra - Gancho Perfecto (9a) + Sharma Video

© Arco 2011
L-R: Adam Ondra (2nd), Dmitry Sharafutdinov (1st) and Rustam Gelmanov (3rd)  © Arco 2011
L-R: Adam Ondra (2nd), Dmitry Sharafutdinov (1st) and Rustam Gelmanov (3rd)
© Arco 2011

Adam Ondra has returned to the office again after the World Championships in Arco. The plastic pulling, resulting in him becoming the combined World Champion after a Gold in the duel, Silver in Bouldering and Bronze in Lead, doesn't seem to have had any negative impact on his rock climbing abilities. The "office" this time was, once again, Margalef, Catalunya.

In usual Ondra fashion, he made quick work of everything he laid his hands on, the highlights being:
A 3rd ascent of Chris Sharma's Gancho perfecto (Perfect hook) in the Finestra sector, which he feels could be 9a+.
A 2nd go ascent of the ~50 meter rig Era bella, 9a, in the La visera de la coma sector at same crag
A couple of onsights in the 8b+/c-range. (He considers Aitzol to be 8b+ rather than 8c.)

Here's a video of Sharma on the route.

Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports

Source: 8a


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Born in the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra has built up a decorated career since his early competitions, winning his first World Championships medal in 2009 in lead climbing. He was a favourite for Tokyo 2020 gold, but an...

Adam's Athlete Page 140 posts 51 videos



4 Aug, 2011
can we not just give up on the ondra stories and just post one last one saying that at some point in the future he will have done everything 9a and harder...? it would save everyone a lot of time
4 Aug, 2011
ye!its teribble to be putting climbing articles on here.....
4 Aug, 2011
but surely then the news would be that he had redpointed 9b+ or onsighted 9a, not that he had been awarded 14000 points on a ridiculous website? Im not sure the points matter at all to anybody...
4 Aug, 2011
...apart from the bloke running the website in question.
4 Aug, 2011
Am I confused? I thought he was working Gancho Perfecto in Progression?
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