UKC

Dreams of youth in Madagascar

© Kletterszene
The guys  © Kletterszene
The guys
© Kletterszene

In August this year, four young Germans, Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur, made the first ascent of Dreams of youth on the 700m Tsaranoro Atsimo, in the in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar.

11 of the 18 pitches are 8a or harder, and with three 8b+'s and one 8c, it very much comparable to its famous neighbor, Tough enough on the east face of Karambony in the same valley, which Adam Ondra made the first free ascent of about one year ago.

A huge difference however is that Dreams of youth remains to be freed. All the harder pitches were climbed using aid.

Sorry this post was more than a little misleading regarding this "small detail".

Here's the break down: 6a+, 6b+, 7b+, 8a+, 8c, 8b, 8a, 8b+, 8c, 8b, 8a, 8b+, 8b+, 7c+, 6b, 7a, 7a, 6a

And here is a video:

Source: Kletterszene

The expedition was sponsored by: Edelrid, deuter, Haglofs, Lowa, Marmot, Red Chili, DAV and Salewa


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6 Nov, 2011
at the end it say's it's 7b, A1+ ?
6 Nov, 2011
No. At the end of the day, it's 8c. Why post stuff like that, it's just stupid.
6 Nov, 2011
WOW! what a douche, I just wanted to know why it say's 7b, it's obviously there for a reason.
7 Nov, 2011
That is very odd. Perhaps it was the grade before they freed it? Although it showed them placing bolts, so unless they took a different line it can't be... Most odd.
7 Nov, 2011
Gives would be repeaters an idea of the obligatoire grade, if nothing else. Suggests that the cruxes are all very well geared...
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