Guntram Jörg from Vorarlberg, Austria, has been a good boulderer for a long time. By "good" I mean loads of 8A's and 8A+'s all over the world, and by a "long time", given that he is only 23, it's really more like a few years.
Still, it feels like he has been around for a while, maintaining a level just below world class.
This autumn, it would seem something has changed though.
After the Västervik Boulder Meet in late August, GU tagged along with Daniel Woods up to Silvretta where, first Daniel, and then GU, repeated Anam Cara.
In hindsight, this ascent was the turning point, or the switch if you like, because after this he has logged two 8B+'s and about a dozen 8B's. What's perhaps even more remarkable is that most of them has been done in a day.
The latest problem to fall was a new one from Fred Nicole at Murgtal. It's so new, Fred hasn't even decided on a name yet, but GU calls it "The Shield sds" and says it's "the best shield ever". This one must have been tough, because he didn't manage to do it in a day, but first try on the second day. Difficulty? 8B+-ish
So how come he's so much better all of a sudden? Something in the water? New pills?
Do you have any explanation other than that you believe more in yourself after Anam Cara?
Hmmm, not really... I always tried to climb things really fast (1 or 2 days) so I couldn't do many hard boulders but now I can do boulders up to 8B+ in a day, that's really cool.
Yesterday I nearly did the second ascent of another Fred [Nicole] boulder in Swiss. It's also 8B+
Maybe next year, you will climb 8C in a day?
Haha maybe ..... I don't really feel at the limit yet
The only explanation I have is, the last few years I have devoted my live to climbing and I think that's the key to climb at your top level.
Investing all your energy, your mental strength, your time and your visions into one thing. This is what outdoor climbing requires.
Yes, that's most likely true. So, what's the plan now? Saty with Daniel, Paul Robinson, Sean McColl and Andy Gullsten in Ticino?
I would love to climb with the others now in Ticino but I have to go back to the other side tomorrow, over Gotthard to try to finish Sur de fil [The Nicole 8B+] before the snow is coming. After I will maybe come back to Ticino for some days? And in about a week or more we go to Fontainebleau.
Thanks GU, and good luck with everything!
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