UKC

9a's by the French in Spain

© Bernardo Gimenez
Dani Andrada on Era Bella, 9a, Margalef  © Bernardo Gimenez
Dani Andrada on Era Bella, 9a, Margalef
© Bernardo Gimenez

As seem to have become a tradition, many of the French top climbers spend this time a year in Cataluña, Spain. Not that this is in anyway limited to the French.

16 year old wiz kid Enzo Oddo has spent a lot of time on the classic La Rambla original, 9a+, in the El Pati sector at Siurana. After twentyfive or so attempts, he did the 7th ascent after Ramón Julián, Edu Marin, Chris Sharma, Andreas Bindhammer, Patxi Usobiaga and Adam Ondra.

The original route, named La Rambla was put up by Alexander Huber in 1994 and given 8c+.
9 years later, Ramonet extended the line somewhat called it La Rambla original and gave it 9a+. The extension doesn't really add much, if anything, to the difficulty, which would strongly imply the original route (not to be confused with La Rambla original), was in fact considerably harder than 8c+ to begin with.

This was Enzo's 4th 9a+.

Meanwhile at Siurana, Sébastien Bouin climbed his second ~9a in short time by repeating Chris Sharma's 50m Era Bella, 9a, in six tries.


Enzo Oddo is sponsored by: prAna, Sterling Rope, Petzl, Five Ten and Club Alpin Francais.

Sébastien Bouin is sponsored by: Five Ten

Source: Kairn


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23 Dec, 2011
"The extension doesn't really add much, if anything, to the difficulty" I thought I remembered reading that Ramon fell off the end a bunch when trying the extension - you have to get a hold with the other hand if you're going to keep going and that's one of the hard moves? Maybe I'm misremembering..
23 Dec, 2011
Was Der Huber's version ever repeated?
23 Dec, 2011
Huber lowered off from the first anchor (Hard 8c+)and then to second one makes the extension dubbed ''La rambla original'' also bolted by Huber but (he)never made it to the second.
23 Dec, 2011
Yes, I know, but the article suggests that Huber's was knocking on 9a itself and just wondered if it was repeated or was Ramonet's the second ascent.
24 Dec, 2011
I watched Dani Andrada try and do the extension several times between 1998 and 2001.I think I saw him repeat the Huber rt and then anounce possible 9a.I believe the extension includes harder moves up and past Hubers belay chain that was originaly grabbed to clip-though this might be totaly wrong.If you need clear details of A.Hubers ascent contact Tobias at Jositos camp it was either him or Jorst that held A.Hubers rope on his eventual redpoint.
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