The route was first climbed by hauling a gas-powered compressor drill up the wall in 1970, with which countless bolts were placed.
The route and the mountain have long been at the centre of controversy, both back in the late 1950's and the 1970's when Cesare Maestri first claimed a false first ascent of the mountain (1959) and then subsequently returned and massacred the mountain with his compressor (1970), as well as much more recently when young Austrian climber David Lama attempted to free climb the route and placed additional bolts.
UKC hope to publish more information on this first bolt-free ascent soon.
We announced in August that the BMC had started a crowd-funding campaign to rebolt Horseshoe Quarry in the Peak District (UKC... Read more
Nick Dixon has completed his project at Nesscliffe, Shropshire, which takes a direct line up the wall left of Une Jeune Fille... Read more
Canadian alpinist Marc-Andre Leclerc has made the second winter ascent of Torre Egger - the first solo ascent in... Read more
Patagonia kept its fickle temperament under control for the most part this season, allowing for some... Read more
It's all going down in Patagonia at the moment. Colin Haley and Alex Honnold have made the second ascent and first one-day... Read more