The route was first climbed by hauling a gas-powered compressor drill up the wall in 1970, with which countless bolts were placed.

The route and the mountain have long been at the centre of controversy, both back in the late 1950's and the 1970's when Cesare Maestri first claimed a false first ascent of the mountain (1959) and then subsequently returned and massacred the mountain with his compressor (1970), as well as much more recently when young Austrian climber David Lama attempted to free climb the route and placed additional bolts.

UKC hope to publish more information on this first bolt-free ascent soon.

• Read the brief report on Alpinist.com