UKC

Pearson - Fast 8c+ And Goes For 9a

© Francisco Taranto Jr
James Pearson on the upper tufa of Mind Control, 8c+, Oliana, Spain  © Francisco Taranto Jr
James Pearson on the upper tufa of Mind Control, 8c+, Oliana, Spain
© Francisco Taranto Jr
James Pearson, currently in Spain with his girlfriend Caroline (see UKC News), has made a very fast ascent of the 8c+ sport route Mind Control at Oliana in the Lleida Provence, Spain.

James commented on his blog:

"Topping out on Mind Control, one of the longer routes up the centre of Oliana was a nice moment indeed. Mind Control is famous for being one of the 8c+'s onsighted by Adam Ondra last year, and so it was interesting to finally see the route in person, and try to comprehend what onsighting something like that entails, especially in the wet."

James is now stepping up the game to a 9a:

"With Mind Control in the bag, I moved on to my planned "long term project" in the form of Esclatamasters at the little visited cliff of Perles...

...The route is going well so far but is certainly a step up from anything I have tried before. I have managed to drag myself up the thing in overlapping halves which is confidence inspiring. However, the final crimpy wall feels so hard after climbing the steep and powerful initial section, and with the holds being as small and specific as they are, any mistake from fatigue is likely to be the end."

Full story with photos on James' Blog.


James Pearson is sponsored by Wild Country , La Sportiva , The North Face , Adidas Eyewear

The photo was taken by Francisco Taranto Jr.


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5 Mar, 2012
He has the Innsbruck Shoulder: Everything crumbles in the face of the Innsbruck Shoulder. Excellent Effort!
5 Mar, 2012
Thats a great picture.
5 Mar, 2012
not short on wingspan is he??
5 Mar, 2012
I dont like how heavily they have edited the rock in that picture, sure its blue, but not like they show it.
6 Mar, 2012
Fantastic effort to Caroline Ciavaldini who has made a quick ascent of the route also. not of any great significance of course, but interestingly Gabriele Moroni has logged it as 8c+ but commented 'everybody knows it's only 8c.
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