Women are repeating Mind control, 8c+, at Oliana, as if it's going out of fashion. The latest quick ascent was made by Caroline Ciavaldini the other day, making her the first woman, after Daila Ojeda and Nina Caprez, to accomplish this feat.
James Pearson, Caroline's boyfriend:
Yesterday, just one day before her birthday, Caroline managed to fight her way to the top of Mind Control at the Spanish super cliff of Oliana. Having climbed the route a few days before, I had a pretty good idea of the difficulties involved, and decided to devote my rest day to being the perfect little Gri-Gri girl (boy) to give her the best chance of success.
She clipped the belay on her second try of the day, 3rd red-point in total, with another inspirational display of grit and determination – there was no way she was letting go of the final tricky tufa.
With the route ticked, there is nothing else to to today but lie happily in the sun, watch the beautiful view, and enjoy the company of good friends – what more could you wish for on your birthday?
After my beautiful debut in Fish Eye, which I succeeded on 2nd go, I found the courage to try to Mind Control, the famous 8c + in Oliana, unsighted by Adam Andra, but red pointed by superstars like: Chris Sharma, Dani Andrada, Gabri Moroni, my Brit ... and recently my two friends, Nina and Daila. These women's repeats gave me a little reassurance: maybe it wasn't so bad and possible after all.
Apparently, it was!
This week's Friday Night Video follows Irish climber David Fitzgerald on Voyager Sit Start 8B+ at Burbage North. After sending... Read more
14 year old Emily Phillips from Cardiff placed 3rd in the IFSC European Youth Cup (Bouldering) in Soure, Portugal last... Read more
Christof Rauch has made the first ascent of Carinthian Dreams, ~8C, in Kärnten, southern Austria. This was his third of the... Read more
British expat James Pearson has established an impressive new E10 crack line at Annot, Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, France, which he... Read more
Anna Liina Laitinen has repeated Joe Blau, 8c+, at Oliana, Spain for what I think is the second female ascent, after Laura... Read more