Very good news has reached us from Cresciano in Ticino, Switzerland, where Dai Koyamada finally has been able to complete The Story of two worlds low start
A couple of years ago, Dai fought rather miserable conditions and managed to make the 2nd ascent of the problem. Or so he though, cause much later it turned out he had started a couple of moves in to the problems. He had done his best to find out where the, unobvious, start is, but was given the wrong information.
Last year he returned, determined not to make the same mistake. To make sure, he decided to start in the lowest possible place with both hands in an undercling. According to Dai, this is also the most logical start.
Last year's trip was successful, with multiple first ascents and repeats in the 8B-8C range, but again the conditions were not right for "Story"...
This is why the news of Dai's success makes me very happy today. He has truly deserved it!
Dai is yet to give a grade to his low start, but it's either 8C or 8C+.
More about this later.
Marginal conditions in the mountains this winter have led to uncertainty and difficult decision-making when planning journeys... Read more
Our Friday Night Video is a fantastically shot view of Jason Kehl's Hueco. Kehl looks at the potential for the development of new... Read more
Dai Koyamada is back in Frankenjura after eight years of absence. Now 40 years old, he seems as strong as ever and has already... Read more
Alex Barrows has climbed his first 8C, ticking The Wheel of Life at Hollow Mountain Cave - Hollow Mountain Area bouldering... Read more