FRI NIGHT VID: Screaming Dream E7 7a

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2012
This news story has been read 7,864 times
This week's Friday nighter is from Wild Country and features a very on form Michele Caminati on the Froggatt test-piece Screaming Dream. This short route, traditionally protected by a bomb-proof runner, has seen very few ascents, despite being perfectly safe. Why? Because it's really hard.

Visiting Italian Michele has gone and done it 'highball' style above bouldering mats. Yes, we think that's great and no, we don't think bouldering mats are cheating. Well done Michele, and oh-my-god, we also saw the facebook photo of you falling off the Ilkley route The New Statesman (E8 7a, but everyone knows this one is really an E9).

We also heard that Michelle went back and climbed The New Statesman a few days after his big fall from above the upper gear (which ripped out). Nice one!

Also featured in this week's vid is James Blay climbing Renegade Master (just to the right of Screaming Dream) also above bouldering mats in the highball style. This was also first climbed with a good wire to protect the upper section, and has now seen quite a few 'bouldering' ascents. Go James!

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