Screaming Dream E7 7aFri Night Vid

30th March, 2012

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This week's Friday nighter is from Wild Country and features a very on form Michele Caminati on the Froggatt test-piece Screaming Dream. This short route, traditionally protected by a bomb-proof runner, has seen very few ascents, despite being perfectly safe. Why? Because it's really hard.

Visiting Italian Michele has gone and done it 'highball' style above bouldering mats. Yes, we think that's great and no, we don't think bouldering mats are cheating. Well done Michele, and oh-my-god, we also saw the facebook photo of you falling off the Ilkley route The New Statesman (E8 7a, but everyone knows this one is really an E9).

Facebook photo: Michele off The New Statesman

We also heard that Michelle went back and climbed The New Statesman a few days after his big fall from above the upper gear (which ripped out). Nice one!

Also featured in this week's vid is James Blay climbing Renegade Master (just to the right of Screaming Dream) also above bouldering mats in the highball style. This was also first climbed with a good wire to protect the upper section, and has now seen quite a few 'bouldering' ascents. Go James!

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Comments

Dave Musgrove Jnr

30 Mar, 2012

Was this ground up or done after toproping? I'm not picking apart the ascent, just interested.

Geordie Jeans

30 Mar, 2012

E7? Surely it should get a highball grade. U cant even injure yourself without pads. Well done on the HVS 7a. Seriously tho im not disagreeing with the effort and skill required to climb it.

DAVETHOMAS90

30 Mar, 2012

"..and no, we don't think bouldering mats are cheating" OMG! Here we go again, the world according to UKC! And lo, on the 8th day of trying, UKC declareth, bouldering mats aren't cheating, thow shalt not top-rope or pre-practice. On the 10th day, after getting some divine wads to stack 'em higher UKC did top out, and he saw that it was good!". Now, before anyone starts, I know the statement reads "we don't THINK etc", I think it's questionable for UKC to make their position so clear, so as to make it sound rather like a decree. I'm not in any way trying to detract from the ascent by Michelle here - the "pad up" high ball approach clearly suits the route well, and less chance of trashing the rock with gear.. As a high ball ascent, why the need to mention the pads at all, or defend the UKC position? Pads are pads (shock horror); they aren't cheating, or not-cheating in and of themselves. We are the ones cheating, in our approach, if we're playing one game, whilst claiming to play another. It depends on the context; trying to label pads good/bad is a nonsense, and places the credibility of an ascent in a "thing" - whereas it rests firmly in our willingness to be honest with ourselves about the arena and game we are playing. Rant over! What incredible weather we're having.. anyone got a mat I can borrow? ;-)

string arms

30 Mar, 2012

In reply to UKC News. Its a high ball problem these days. With mats you still risk an injury, and without one its really gonna hurt. Either way its a fair distance to fall. Mats are ok. Its time we stopped bleating on about them. Ascents are personal and not really of any importance to anybody else. Protection has improved over the years and we all benefit. Mats are just a part of this. Before we deride the ascent ask yourself this .... would you jump off on to one from the top?

bunn.aroundthebloc

30 Mar, 2012

Did anyone else notice the wild country title at the beginning was slightly squished?

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