Said Belhaj, from Sweden, has made what should be the 4th ascent of Pierre Soulé's La Guerre des nerfs, 9a, at La Verrière in France.
According to Said, the route can be described as a hard 8c followed by an 8b/+, with the hardest single move being a big move from a crap left hand pinch, via an intermediate, to a better right hand pinch, where a foot wedged between two tufas pulls you in the wrong direction.
On his third short trip there, he pulled through and did it.
Here's a video from when Gérôme Pouvreau made the 2nd ascent.
The fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place at EICA Ratho near Edinburgh this weekend. For the first time in 14 years,... Read more
Cobra Crack in Squamish is infamous within knarly crack climbing circles. It's hosted a number of battles over the years, but... Read more
Said Belhaj has repeated Chris Sharma's Paoichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, in Catalunya. This was the Swedish climbers hardest route to... Read more
Kairn reports, Gérôme Pouvreau has made the second ascent of La guerre de nerfs, 9a, at La Verrière. The FA was made by Pierre... Read more