Hazel Findlay, currently in Squamish on her way to Yosemite, has made the first ascent of Adder Crack, 5.13 R (~8a+) at Longhouse, Squamish, Canada.
You can read all about it on her blog, but here is the short version.
The thin crack, or seam really, was cleaned by Joshua Lavigne, who thought that it would be a 5.12 finger splitter. As it turned out, the crack was thinner than expected and even small fingers didn't fit, so he pulled his rope and handed the project over to Hazel.
Hazel describes the route as a five meter thin intro crux, which she solved by "...using laybacking and imaginary finger locks.">/i>, followed by an easier section and then a second crux leading to a 5.11ish finish.
To protect the start she had to apply British tactics, i.e. using two ropes and placing gear off route, as the moves were too hard to place the fiddly gear on lead.
About the name, Hazel says she "...thought the Adder Crack was good, because it's like a less cool, less bad-ass, thinner, slightly venomous, more British version of the Cobra Crack."
Polish climber and Scottish resident Marek Raganowicz has established two new aid routes in rope solo style on the East and North... Read more
US alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent of the North Buttress of Mt Hunter - also known as... Read more
Alex Megos has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a, at Squamish, Canada. Quite unexpectedly, he made the... Read more
Pete Whittaker recently returned from a three-week trip to Squamish, in British Columbia, Canada. Normally associated... Read more