Pete Robins has completed a new route on The Diamond in the nick of time before the wet winter weather returns. It had been a frustrating time for him since beginning on the project back in August with conditions frequently not good enough for a proper attempt. The successful ascent finally came on a surprisingly dry day in early October.
Pete commented, "I'm so happy with this, to do such a world class first ascent near my limit, minutes from home, in the uk, was a dream. I'd pretty much given up too, since the weather has been so shit. Thinking about it now, that go I did it was probably my last chance till next August, as I'm away now for two weeks, then it is November. Jeez, that was close!"
The route tackles the steep bulging central section of the Diamond (on the Little Orme, North Wales Limestone - UKC Logbook entry) utilising the start of The Brute, a hard 8b, to get above the desperately smooth lower section. It then breaks left onto the steep upper wall with some big long moves of up to font 8A. The route currently finishes at half-height although Pete had bolted the extension but it was too wet for him to complete on this occasion. He doesn't reckon it will change the grade which has been offered at F8c+.
The Diamond is obviously a crag with great potential but as yet only two routes have breached the desperate lower water-washed bulges - The Brute (F8b) and The Waiting Game (F8a) on the right-hand side. The name of the latter route reflects the approach most climbers with projects have to have at this crag since both tides and conditions are frequently unhelpful. The topo below updates the current state of play on the left-hand side of the crag.
Mammut have released the next in their 'Classics' series and we're in Fontainebleau this week. Jacky Godoffe first climbed... Read more
Over the last few days the UKC development team has been putting the finishing touches to a few new features, most of which... Read more
North Wales climber Pete Robins recently accumulated 105 'V points' - as in the sum of Hueco 'V' scale numbers - in just one... Read more
This weekend Adam Ondra and Patxi Usobiaga visited Klättercentret Stockholm for a Black Diamond event with slideshows,... Read more