11 year old, Ashima Shirashi just keeps taking giant steps. Now she has repeated Joe Kinder's Southern smoke, 8c+, at the Bob marley crag, Red River Gorge.
After a 3rd go 8b/+ the first day and an 8b+ flash the second, it took a few days for the next ground breaking ascent. Ashima was working on Lucifer, 8c+, for a bit before deciding to go for Southern smoke instead.
The route adds a direct start into the crux of Ultra-perm, 8b, a few meters right of another 8c+, 50 words for pump, and Joe describes it as:...simple and purely stamina/resistance. There is one shake spot on some getto holds after you have climbed something in the 13d/14a [8b/+] range. After this the real crux comes that surely checks in around 13c/d [8a+/b] to the top.
Ashima is the youngest person ever to climb 8c+. Yes, younger even than Adam Ondra, who was 12 when he did Alien carnage at Castillon.
Deadpoint magazine has the full story and several more photos.
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