11 year old, Ashima Shirashi just keeps taking giant steps. Now she has repeated Joe Kinder's Southern smoke, 8c+, at the Bob marley crag, Red River Gorge.
After a 3rd go 8b/+ the first day and an 8b+ flash the second, it took a few days for the next ground breaking ascent. Ashima was working on Lucifer, 8c+, for a bit before deciding to go for Southern smoke instead.
The route adds a direct start into the crux of Ultra-perm, 8b, a few meters right of another 8c+, 50 words for pump, and Joe describes it as:...simple and purely stamina/resistance. There is one shake spot on some getto holds after you have climbed something in the 13d/14a [8b/+] range. After this the real crux comes that surely checks in around 13c/d [8a+/b] to the top.
Ashima is the youngest person ever to climb 8c+. Yes, younger even than Adam Ondra, who was 12 when he did Alien carnage at Castillon.
Deadpoint magazine has the full story and several more photos.
20 years after establishing his classic Voie Petit 8b on the Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc Massif, Arnaud Petit has returned... Read more
Our Friday Night Video is an account of Hayden Kennedy and Nik Berry climbing The Hallucinogen Wall (5.13R) in Black Canyon. The... Read more
Hello Nicolas. Can you briefly tell us who you are and what your role in the French team is? I used to be a good climber, not... Read more
These are great days for climbing in general and women's climbing in particular. Last week, Michaela Kiersch repeated no... Read more
22 year-old US climber Michaela Kiersch recently climbed The Golden Ticket (5.14c/8c+) at The Chocolate Factory, Red... Read more