Fabian Buhl from southern Germany, has made the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' American gangster, 8B+, at Sundergrund in the Zillertal, Austria.
Daniel made the first ascent back in November of 2009, but it took two and a half years until Flo Schmalzl managed to repeat it. Then Paul Robinson made the third ascent earlier this autumn.
Daniel described it to me like this: ...the combination is an 8A+ intro boulder of 3 moves to a 2 move 8A+. The upper part consists of a huge deadpoint with the left hand to a small slopey crimper, then a one arm lock off to the slopey lip. All on a steep overhanging wall.
All the repeaters used different beta however. We all went up with the right hand to the small crimp, which makes it a different beta to daniels, that makes the move up more secure, but the final move to the lip harder!
Fabian, who isn't very tall, found the first part ...quite a challenge, cause I was very extended in the first part which is th same as Camorra 8A+, but than this small stature became an advantage on the second part and ...I could climb the upper part quite controlled
He also says it's a really nice boulder and one of the best lines he has ever climbed.
A handful of books by British authors and publishers have made the longlist in the prestigious Banff Mountain Book Competition,... Read more
In late August, British alpinist Tom Ballard attempted the North East face of Link Sar (7041m) in the Pakistan Karakoram... Read more
We announced in August that the BMC had started a crowd-funding campaign to rebolt Horseshoe Quarry in the Peak District (UKC... Read more
Alex Megos has made the second ascent of Jakob Schubert's route, Companion of Change, 9a+ at Bergstation, in the Zillertal,... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the first ascent of Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria.... Read more