Fabian Buhl from southern Germany, has made the 4th ascent of Daniel Woods' American gangster, 8B+, at Sundergrund in the Zillertal, Austria.
Daniel made the first ascent back in November of 2009, but it took two and a half years until Flo Schmalzl managed to repeat it. Then Paul Robinson made the third ascent earlier this autumn.
Daniel described it to me like this: ...the combination is an 8A+ intro boulder of 3 moves to a 2 move 8A+. The upper part consists of a huge deadpoint with the left hand to a small slopey crimper, then a one arm lock off to the slopey lip. All on a steep overhanging wall.
All the repeaters used different beta however. We all went up with the right hand to the small crimp, which makes it a different beta to daniels, that makes the move up more secure, but the final move to the lip harder!
Fabian, who isn't very tall, found the first part ...quite a challenge, cause I was very extended in the first part which is th same as Camorra 8A+, but than this small stature became an advantage on the second part and ...I could climb the upper part quite controlled
He also says it's a really nice boulder and one of the best lines he has ever climbed.
Marginal conditions in the mountains this winter have led to uncertainty and difficult decision-making when planning journeys... Read more
Our Friday Night Video is a fantastically shot view of Jason Kehl's Hueco. Kehl looks at the potential for the development of new... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made a winter solo ascent of Alexander Huber's Wetterbockwand at Hohee Göll. The hardest pitch of this... Read more
Fabian Buhl is the promising alpine skier, who turned boulderer, then trad climber and now multi pitch master. Always on a world... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the second ascent of Alex Luger's PsychoGramm, ~8b+ trad, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg,... Read more