As predicted, it didn't take long until Nalle Hukkataival's Off the wagon, at Valle Bavona, got a second ascent, and it wasn't surprising that Jan Hojer was the man who did it.
In fact, Jan had sort of expected to make the first ascent, but Nalle beat him to it:
I actually thought that I would make the FA of the Wagon project. I tried it for 10 min after I sent Momentum and it felt pretty doable.... But Nalle sent it the following day
Again, Jan made quick work of a problem suggested to be 8C (but extremely difficult to put a grade on as it only has two moves which both are very unusual) thinking 8B+ is perhaps more appropriate. The problem definitely need more repeats for the grade to settle.
It would be interesting to see Jan put up some problems on his own, but unfortunately I probably won't have time to try new projects since I'm leaving in a couple of days and there's so much left to do! I didn't even find the time yet to climb in Chironico...
Well, jan is young and will have plenty of time to climb futuristic new problems in the future.
Jan Hojer is sponsored by: Mammut and Chimpanzodrome
13 year-old Leo Skinner from South Wales has ticked Butch Cassidy 8A at Dinas Rock, the day after his 13th birthday. Leo has been... Read more
Toshi Takeuchi has made the first ascent of Kuzan at Mie in Japan. Toshi, who has climbed several ~8C's calls this hard for the... Read more