Sarah, who has previously climbed several 8cs in the Frankenjura, reported on her Spainish exploits on the Marmot Website and we have a copy of that report below. But if you don't know Sarah, why not check out this excellent video portrait of her from Black Diamond:
One route in particular attracted my attention."T1 – Full Equip" goes up a characteristic grey streak on the slightly overhanging part of the crag and is 35 meters long. It is technically demanding and offers great and fun climbing from the beginning until the end. Even if Full Equip for sure is not the hardest 8c, it is a fantastic climb on beautiful rock.
On my first time on the route I did not even reach the anchors, I lowered after the first part. How should one ever be able to memorize the more than 80 moves??? And how should one deal with all that lactic acid running through the forearms??? Surprisingly, things were looking better quite soon. Motivated by the ascents of the two Franconian warriors Jonas and Chris and by the constantly flowing energia positiva at the crag, I finally could send Full Equip.
Our next destination was Val de Canelles. This valley is simply mind blowing, with huge climbing potential for the future. The cave "Espluga del Cel" already hosts some great routes, its dimensions are incredible – it is Santa Linya's big sister.
On our last day, we quickly stopped in Tres Ponts where I could send both "Els inconformistas" and "Mites Moderns" on sight (both 8a), a nice end to a great trip. Hasta la proxima, querida España!"
Marginal conditions in the mountains this winter have led to uncertainty and difficult decision-making when planning journeys... Read more
Our Friday Night Video is a fantastically shot view of Jason Kehl's Hueco. Kehl looks at the potential for the development of new... Read more
Toshi Takeuchi has made the first ascent of Kuzan at Mie in Japan. Toshi, who has climbed several ~8C's calls this hard for the... Read more
On his third trip to Bishop, and after specialized training, Toru Nakajima has managed to make the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson's... Read more