Paddy Cave Climbs '1984' (IX,9) Lake District

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Dec/2012
This news story has been read 9,463 times
Paddy Cave has made the first winter ascent of '1984' at Flat Crags, Langdale, Lake District.

Looking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right., 180 kbLooking up at the upper section of Flat Crags before the winter ascent of 1984. The route takes the corner on the right.
© Paddy Cave Collection

On a previous attempt Paddy had to retreat after he dropped a tool whilst leading. Paddy blogged earlier in the month:

"...with all the hard climbing more or less completed I was placing some gear and heard the clanking of a tool disappearing down the crag, I'd knock my axe out of the hook I'd left it in... with no option for getting stable to get it sent back up I was forced to accept failure and lower off..."

The line of 1984, 79 kbThe line of 1984
© Paddy Cave Collection
Paddy in the upper corner section, after the roof., 47 kbPaddy in the upper corner section, after the roof.
© Paddy Cave Collection

However this Saturday saw no mishaps and Paddy completed the climb. He reported on his blog:

"...arriving at the crag it was obvious that the crag was plastered but we couldn't see the overhanging wall start without detouring to the crag, so going up around the corner we saw that the ice at the groove's bottom and icicle were still there, there was more fresh snow blown around the lower part of the route and now there was also ice in the cracks to clear.

So happy with the condition of the lower section of the route I gave it another go.  Repelled with some sequence confusion on the crux which I knew from before and then the pump setting in I returned to the deck, rested, and started again...  This time I got through the crux, gained the upper corner still with both axes, and climbed the brilliant upper corner to the belay... ... It was great to get this climbed and the climbing quality, hooks, and nature of the route gives a brilliant winter route with 2 contrasting sections.  I am not really too sure about the grade but would suggest IX,9..."

Paddy Cave is supported by Sherpa Adventure Gear and The Epicentre

Check out Paddy's instructing website here: Mountain Circles

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