Young climbers Ellis Butler-Barker (16) and James Squire (16) have both made fast ascents of the technical and slightly high-ball Font 8A problem of Guy Fawkes at The Cuttings, Dorset.
Ellis, from Devon, has been climbing less than two years, and has been romping through the grades. Read his account of his ascent of Guy Fawkes on his blog.
"After an early start, my family and I drove down to Portland, picking Ellis up on the way and headed over to The Cuttings crag and boulder field. The problem I was hoping to try was called Guy Fawkes (font 8a) originally climbed by Jimbo Kimber in 1999 and given 7c+, but afterwards a good starting jug (used for crucial feet in the crux) had broken off and was then climbed by John Gaskins at 7c+/8a and was then climbed again by strong traveller Dan Kennard and thought to be benchmark 8a. History lesson over, back to the climbing...
... After a gentle warm up, I flashed the stand-up version called 'Gunpowder Plot' at soft 6c and started working this sit start being 'Guy Fawkes' 8a. Within about half an hour I had all the beta and moves sorted: undercut into side pull, over to two horrible crimps, big move out left and into the stand! The next 45 mins was spent trying it from the start involving many close attempts but finally I pulled on and screamed my way through to the finish! Making that my first font 8a since my finger injury and my first climb of the year! (If you heard my power screams from anywhere further than London please let me know)."
Read the rest of James' account on his blog.
James Squire is sponsored by La Sportiva, Tip Juice and Base Cubic
Ellis is sponsored by Dartrock Climbing Centre, Base Cubic, Liquid Grip and Infinity Pro.
Marginal conditions in the mountains this winter have led to uncertainty and difficult decision-making when planning journeys... Read more
Our Friday Night Video is a fantastically shot view of Jason Kehl's Hueco. Kehl looks at the potential for the development of new... Read more