We now have more details and excellent photos from Berghaus:
British climber and adventurer Leo Houlding has led an international team to success on the first ascent of a major new route on the remarkable Antarctic peak, Ulvetanna (2930m). Widely considered to be the most demanding peak on the harshest continent, the mile long north east ridge of the mountain has been described as one of "the last great climbs". The team included Sean Leary (USA), Jason Pickles (UK), David Reeves (South Africa), Chris Rabone (UK) and award winning film-maker Alastair Lee (UK).
Ulvetanna ("the wolf's tooth" in Norwegian) is the jewel in the crown of the FenrisKjefeten ("the wolf's jaw") range of mountains of Queen Maud Land, eastern Antarctica. After months of preparation, the expedition began in late December, sponsored by British outdoor brand Berghaus.
Leo Houlding commented:
"Ulvetanna's fearsome north east ridge allowed us safe passage up and down from her summit, but not without showing a few teeth. We're back in base camp with all our stuff, the weather is great again and we're all loving life.
This landscape of endless white desert and giant rock fangs is totally out of this world. At times in truly brutal conditions, we have all been pushed to our limits. We have taken a beating, but come out on top – well, back at the bottom thankfully!
We have just completed the first ascent of one of the world's last great climbs and are all suitably psyched. A decade of dreaming, a year of planning, a month on the ice, and a week on the wall and we have done it. It's a dream come true - nice one boys!"
A detailed account of the team's experiences can be found in the expedition blog.
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