This line has seen much attention over the last 30 years but had yet to see a free ascent. Starting on the seaward face, the climb turns the arete at a flake giving access to the crack of Gloy.
A series of compression moves leads to a small wire placement (which was preplaced for this ascent) before the crux sequence, after which the climb finishes on the seaward arete in a fine position.
Martin named the route Skyfall after a cam placement failure on lead resulted in a vicious ground fall. Despite no mats being used Martin was luckily able to walk away without any major injuries.
Martin regards the route as a fantastic challenge and deserving of future attention and estimates the grade to be E7 6b.
Martin would like to say a big thank you to the Barn Climbing Centre (Milton Abbot) especially Brian for the continued support.
This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the Arctic archipelago of the Lofoten Islands in Norway, where granite towers pierce... Read more
A handful of books by British authors and publishers have made the longlist in the prestigious Banff Mountain Book Competition,... Read more
A major landslide is affecting the approach to on the North Cornwall coast, where a huge area of cliff is subsiding. It poses a... Read more
Tom Bunn has made the first ascent of a striking new E7 at Tintagel Head in Cornwall. Hunter's Moon (E7 6b/c) is protected... Read more