Hard New Boulders and Repeats for Tom Newberry

by Duncan Campbell - UKC May/2013
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Tom Newberry on his new problem Pipeline (8A+), 133 kb
Tom Newberry on his new problem Pipeline (8A+)
© Tom Newberry Collection
South West based teacher, Tom Newberry, has recently been developing some hard new problems in the South West, following them up with hard repeats further North.

Tom Newberry has been busy developing new boulders on the Exmoor Coast, recently. Of most significance is the completion of a 'well-known' (amongst those in the know) project at Silery/Foreland Point, Tom's new problem known as Pipeline goes at 8A+ and was finally sent on 29th March 2013 after a prolonged effort from the South West based climber.

Tom described Pipeline, reckoning it to be one of the hardest in the South West in a report on javu.co.uk as;

"A perfect 6m highball wall overhanging about 5 degrees with few holds and zero friction. It took a winter of work to suss out a sequence for the crux which is near the top. The problem goes straight up the middle with a left hand on the low arête and right in a slot, which can be a sit-start or stretch-start dependant on beach height. Success comes from linking huge throws between bad holds to top out on a ledge where the rock changes colour."

In addition to this Tom also put up other hard boulders in the area with; Womping (7C+), Barden (7C+), Face Plant (7C), Cake Vs Pie (7B+), Retrogaming (7A+), Daft Spunk (7A), and The Groove SDS (7A) being the cream of the crop.  

About Womping Tom added;

"On the slopey traverse block I added Womping,7C+, an extension to the 7B traverse described in the free Lynmouth topo, this is a slick, slopey, pumpfest with a hard crux turning the corner. Training on Beastmaker 45s will help!"

Obviously on a run of good form, Tom then headed North, stopping off at the Gower to make the 3rd ascent of Zulu Wall, 8A, claiming it to be "totally amazing". Continuing up to the Peak, Tom then made a quick ascent of Serenity, 8B at Roche Abbey in a couple of sessions.

Tom is sponsored by Evolv, Metolius, prAna

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