German power house Jan Hojer has made the second ascent of Mecanique Elementaire, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. The problem was put up in December 2005 by Sébastien Frigault.
Jan needed only two sessions, if you count the one he had when he did Opium, ~8A, in February last year, and felt it was probably more 8B+ than 8C for him.
I had a chat with him about it:
So Jan, you're at it again. Killing off 8C's that is.
Haha yeah... Just took a little summer rest but started to train again... And it pays off!
Seems Fontainebleau suits you, even though it shouldn't.
Many people are surprised that I like Font?!
Yeah... well, I guess Font is sort of known for being a lot about feet. All those technical French guys in Boreal Ninjas...
And you're sort of known for campusing everything.
Ty[ler Landman] also campused the whole forest... Many years ago!
True! Guess it's all about power then after all...
It is ;)
This Mecanique Elementaire that you did... what's the style?
Steep, athletic roof with good holds except for the starting crimps. And a pretty reachy 8A at the end ;) [Jan is almost 190cm, so this would suit him].
So the start is the crux for you?
Yeah.. Took me 20 tries to stick the second hold. Kind of a one arm catch at a good slopy hole.
Those are hard yeah... How long will you stay in Font?
Could stay till next Thursday but it's supposed to rain a lot... I just hope to finish off Trip Hop[another Frigault ~8C]
Good luck with that! I imagine the crux is having power left when you get to the dyno move? There is such a move right?
Yes there is and I stuck it twice coming from the bottom! It's not really over then but I have something like a 50% chance to Top it I'll try again tomorrow... The last dry day
If you've fallen there twice, your chance of doing it next time should be 150%, no problem!
Something like that.
Anyway, best of luck with that! Looking forward to seeing that power at Legends Only in a month!
Haha thanks, see you then!
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