German power house Jan Hojer has made the second ascent of Mecanique Elementaire, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. The problem was put up in December 2005 by Sébastien Frigault.
Jan needed only two sessions, if you count the one he had when he did Opium, ~8A, in February last year, and felt it was probably more 8B+ than 8C for him.
I had a chat with him about it:
So Jan, you're at it again. Killing off 8C's that is.
Haha yeah... Just took a little summer rest but started to train again... And it pays off!
Seems Fontainebleau suits you, even though it shouldn't.
Many people are surprised that I like Font?!
Yeah... well, I guess Font is sort of known for being a lot about feet. All those technical French guys in Boreal Ninjas...
And you're sort of known for campusing everything.
Ty[ler Landman] also campused the whole forest... Many years ago!
True! Guess it's all about power then after all...
It is ;)
This Mecanique Elementaire that you did... what's the style?
Steep, athletic roof with good holds except for the starting crimps. And a pretty reachy 8A at the end ;) [Jan is almost 190cm, so this would suit him].
So the start is the crux for you?
Yeah.. Took me 20 tries to stick the second hold. Kind of a one arm catch at a good slopy hole.
Those are hard yeah... How long will you stay in Font?
Could stay till next Thursday but it's supposed to rain a lot... I just hope to finish off Trip Hop[another Frigault ~8C]
Good luck with that! I imagine the crux is having power left when you get to the dyno move? There is such a move right?
Yes there is and I stuck it twice coming from the bottom! It's not really over then but I have something like a 50% chance to Top it I'll try again tomorrow... The last dry day
If you've fallen there twice, your chance of doing it next time should be 150%, no problem!
Something like that.
Anyway, best of luck with that! Looking forward to seeing that power at Legends Only in a month!
Haha thanks, see you then!
13 year-old Leo Skinner from South Wales has ticked Butch Cassidy 8A at Dinas Rock, the day after his 13th birthday. Leo has been... Read more
Toshi Takeuchi has made the first ascent of Kuzan at Mie in Japan. Toshi, who has climbed several ~8C's calls this hard for the... Read more
Charles Albert, a.k.a. "Barefoot Charles" has made the first ascent of Délire Onirique assis, ~8C, at Rocher... Read more
Alban Levier has repeated Jan Hojer's Jour de Chasse, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. This was the 8th ascent. Although best... Read more
Melissa LeNevé has made the first female ascent of Arnaud Ceintre's La cicatrice de l'ohm, ~8B,... Read more