UKC

Winter Storms Cause Damage to South Coast Crags

© Bob M

The extreme winter storms that the UK endured at the end of 2013 and the beginning of 2014 have caused some considerable damage to crags at both Portland and Swanage on the South Coast of the UK.

At Boulder Ruckle, Swanage, the classic VS 5a, Tatra, has suffered rockfall on its first pitch. Pete Finclaire, Andy Blakeley and Bob Mott headed down to Boulder Ruckle recently, to find that a 'caravan-sized' block had fallen out of the first pitch. They reclimbed the route, feeling that the first pitch was top-end E1 5b now. You can read more in the Forum Thread

Tatra, VS 5a, before the rockfall  © Mark Glaister
Tatra, VS 5a, before the rockfall
© Mark Glaister
Tatra after the rockfall. The rock by the belayer formed the right hand side of the sentry box on the original route.  © Bob M
Tatra after the rockfall. The rock by the belayer formed the right hand side of the sentry box on the original route.
© Bob M, Jan 2014

Pete commented on the rockfall and the new first pitch:

"The new version climbs the obvious corner to about half its height, before traversing right to the hanging arete, then climbs up to the lip of the roof to take the diagonal groove to the fault line (which is the original first belay of the old Tatra).

The rock is remarkably clean considering how fresh the rock fall is. I think the grade is E1 5b and is very good climbing. The old route was an original Swanage classic and a great tour of Marmalata Buttress following an amenable line."

Further rockfall has occurred around the Lighthouse Area of Portland, specifically affecting two previously undocumented bouldering areas. Ben Stokes, author of the forthcoming Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Guide (Due Summer 2014), commented:

"The loss is a great shame since many of the established problems were two or three stars and of great character. As can be seen the venues were completely destroyed"

One of the new bouldering areas affected by the winter storms  © Ben Stokes
One of the new bouldering areas affected by the winter storms
© Ben Stokes
These areas were set to be documented in the  forthcoming Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Guide  © Ben Stokes
These areas were set to be documented in the forthcoming Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Guide
© Ben Stokes

 

 

 


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14 Jan, 2014
Wow, those pictures really give some perspective to the immense power of the storms I keep hearing about! Not having travelled outside Nottingham or Derbyshire in the past few weeks it's been hard to relate to the storms; all I've seen is a couple of slightly gusty days and the odd shower. Basically business as usual.
14 Jan, 2014
I'm waiting for Grantus to tell us what's been knocked down on Lundy. Hopefully the entire island hasn't sunk. jcm
14 Jan, 2014
Ladram bay stacks came through it all Unscathed.
14 Jan, 2014
God has broken the cliffs
14 Jan, 2014
Did you get up it with Deepstar?
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