Visiting German climber, Benno Wagner has made the third ascent of Stevie Haston's bold and loose Melody, E8 6b, at Craig Dorys on the Lleyn Peninsula, North Wales. Benno climbed the route in cold and windy conditions after a brief top-rope inspection.
Benno headed to the crag with Calum Muskett and another friend Niels with the trio hoping to find t-shirt temperatures as they had done the weekend before. Unfortunately they found gale force winds, barely allowing them to be able to stand at the of the crag.
Calum commented on the condition of the crag when they arrived:
"We were barely able to stand on top of the crag when we arrived and only managed to rig a top rope on Melody by lowering bags and people on the end of ropes so that they'd make it to the bottom! The sea was really big too and foam was blowing about at the base of the cliff."
Benno had a quick top-rope before Calum and Niels top-roped it during a rain shower. Calum takes up the story:
"I lost all my motivation to try it after that because I was cold but Bavaria obviously produces real men and Benno didn't seem affected by the cold, wind or rain! It brightened up by early afternoon and Benno made a very smooth lead."
Calum commented on the difficulty of Melody:
"The route felt like a bottom-end E8 6b. The lower wall is very loose and scary but has relatively easy climbing whilst the upper wall is on better quality rock, about 7b and reasonably well protected by cams."
Benno had previously tried Calum's route Discord, E7, but had fallen off and thankfully survived, showing the boldness of this Bavarian man. He also made a very quick ground-up ascent of Art Nouveau, highball 7B/E6 6c, at The Roaches in the Peak District the Saturday before climbing Melody.
Watch this space for more news from Benno as he is studying in Cardiff until May - here at UKC we aren't exactly sure what will be left for him to climb by the time he leaves.
Benno Wagner is sponsored by: Five Ten
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