Sachi Amma, one of the very best lead competition climbers in the world, is a decent boulderer as well. Repeating Dai Koyamada's Hydrangea, ~8C, and Babel, ~8C, both at Shiobara, isn't that bad...
I send Hydrangea V15 and Babel v14/15 both today!!! I was wondering to climb both of it someday when I was student. But everything happened today!!! I am soooooooo happy :) is what he wrote on facebook.
Hydrangea was put up by Dai in 2005 as a possible 8C+. As far as I know it has had two repeats before Sachi's, by Daniel Woods and Motochika Nagao, and the grade seems to have settled around 8C.
I don't know if Babel, which Dai opened in 2007, has seen any repeats before, but apparently Sachi found it slightly easier as he calls it 8B+/C.
Sachi Amma is sponsored by: Rokodromo and adidas
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