UKC

Cheddar Gorge Access at Risk

© alew
Jack Geldard

This has been read 13,751 times

Bad Behaviour Leaves Cheddar Staff Cheesed-Off

Access is at risk in Cheddar Gorge, Somerset. Everyone climbing at Cheddar must have third party liability insurance, and must keep away from several banned areas. These rules are being regularly broken, and when approached by Cheddar Gorge staff, some climbers are being aggressive.

Cheddar exposure. Goats R Us F6b+ © alew
Cheddar exposure. Goats R Us F6b+
© alew, May 2011

Paradise lost, Cheddar. 7b (top pitch) © Brian H
Paradise lost, Cheddar. 7b (top pitch)
© Brian H, Mar 2012
Cheddar Gorge is a classic crag with atmospheric routes such as Coronation Street, E1 5b, Castles Made of Sand, 6c, and Paradise Lost, 7b. The crag sits literally right above to the road, minimising the walk-in, but meaning any cars or people below are right in the rockfall firing line.

It is the beautiful rock architecture and picturesque road winding through the gorge that draws not only climbers but tourists, geologists and wildlife enthusiasts. All these groups enjoy the rock formations, up close and on private land.

So what do we do?

Historically no climbing was allowed between March and October to minimise the risk to tourists, however in recent years this was amended to the current agreement:

  • During very busy periods no climbing is allowed on the South side of the Gorge.
  • In moderately busy periods, climbing is allowed on certain crags that have been cleaned of loose rock as much as possible.
  • When the gorge is quiet all routes on the South side of the Gorge are open for climbing.

In addition to this, in order to climb in Cheddar Gorge climbers are required to have third party liability insurance in case they cause injury or damage property. This often comes with being a member a climbing club, or of the BMC, though can also be purchased separately. 

To prevent further damage to the reputation of climbers the BMC urges anyone planning on climbing in Cheddar Gorge to do the following before heading there:

  • Make sure you are insured
  • Check the BMC access database
  • Only park in the long-stay visitor car parks
  • Be friendly to any CC&G Staff you talk to
  • If you see climbers climbing in a restricted area let them know

​For more information on the issue you can read more on the BMC site. 

This post has been read 13,751 times

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Comments

Oujmik
16 May, 2014
Unless I'm out of date, this article is slightly inaccurate. The insurance requirements apply only to the south side of the gorge, owned by a private company. The north side is owned by the national trust and, whilst there are still extensive restrictions the insurance requirement is not one of them.
Jim Brooke
16 May, 2014
What ARE the restrictions on North Side crags? I thought basically all the sport climbing on the N side is open year round, but in a moment of work avoidance I checked the BMC website. The RAD page and the Access Calendar PDF both give a list of crags are open year round, but they list different crags, and neither of them says which crags are closed. Cheddar access was always a bit confusing, but it seems even the BMC aren't sure...! RAD web page says these are open year round : Arch Rock, Easter Island, French Pinnacle, Heart Leaf Bluff, Hounds Bluff, Lion Rock, Nameless Bay, Overshoot Wall, Pride Evans Cliff, Subsidiary Walls (lower tier), Secret Solo Bluff, Stepped Wall, The Narrows, The Wave, The Remnant, The Niche, The Tsunami Access Calendar PDF says these are open year round : Pride Evans Cliff, Heart Leaf Bluff, The Wave, The Narrows, Arch Rock, Stepped Wall, Overshoot Wall, Lion Rock, The Remnant
henwardian
16 May, 2014
Sounds like you just print off the list that doesn't include the crag you want to climb on when you go then. [stir, stir, stir]
Jim Brooke
16 May, 2014
Now I've compared against Martin Crocker's 2009 guide, which says something slightly different again. Very similar to the RAD web page, but it says parts of Nameless Bay (Micawber Buttress, Mare's Nest Buttress, Danemark Cliff) are winter only. The book also mentions Sun Hole and 5b wall as being prohibited year round, which neither the RAD page or the Access Calendar mention....
cha1n
16 May, 2014
The people I've had to politely inform that they aren't meant to be climbing on the southside have almost always come across as arrogant tw*ts. Maybe not a coincidence...
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