UKC

8c+ on Trad Gear by Roland HemetzbergerFri Night Vid

© BD

This week's Friday Night Video is from Black Diamond. Here's what they say:

"In 1996, Harald Bielmeier, bolted this 40m crack line, which ends in fifteen feet of blank wall. Since then, this final crux remained unsolved and unclimbable. For Black Diamond athlete Roland Hemetzberger, that was all the reason and motivation to have a closer look at it.

Two years of work revealed the solution, but more than that: the realization that the route could be climbed in a cleaner style. On the fixed rope, Hemetzberger removed the bolts and replaced them with birdpeaks, stoppers, camalots and pitons: trad gear used during his Alpine climbing."


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19 Sep, 2014
Some decent rock they have abroad, don't they?! Strange to do it on trad gear to a lower-off! Still, good effort. jcm
20 Sep, 2014
It's not in the least bit strange to climb it on trad to a lower off. Thousands of routes are like that (e.g. in the US).
20 Sep, 2014
Where is this?
20 Sep, 2014
What is strange is to remove the bolts then to climb on entirely pre-placed gear! Is this really a 'cleaner style'?
20 Sep, 2014
yes
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