Fabian Buhl has made the first repeat of Alex Huber's Nirwana, a 7 pitch route on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte. The crux pitch weighs in around 8c+, making this one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the world.
The route has bolted belays and 17 bolts to protect the 7 pitches. The rest is trad or runout climbing!
The crux pitch is 50 m long and has three boulder problems, that get harder the higher you get! I worked the route a few days on my own, just to get the boulders really into the system... but the ascent still came unexpected!
I was attracted by the steepness of the wall and it's dynamic and technical climbing. We just wanted to film some tries for a upcoming movie project, but now Stefan Schlumpf & Diego Defilla got the full ascent, so stay tuned for the movie and a detailed story, which will be released in the next weeks...
So, in other words: stay tuned for more.
Fabian Buhl has now bouldered 8C, climbed E9/10/8b+ trad and 8c+ multi-pitch. How many can match that?
But then again... what has he ever done on grit?
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