Fabian Buhl has made the first repeat of Alex Huber's Nirwana, a 7 pitch route on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte. The crux pitch weighs in around 8c+, making this one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the world.
The route has bolted belays and 17 bolts to protect the 7 pitches. The rest is trad or runout climbing!
The crux pitch is 50 m long and has three boulder problems, that get harder the higher you get! I worked the route a few days on my own, just to get the boulders really into the system... but the ascent still came unexpected!
I was attracted by the steepness of the wall and it's dynamic and technical climbing. We just wanted to film some tries for a upcoming movie project, but now Stefan Schlumpf & Diego Defilla got the full ascent, so stay tuned for the movie and a detailed story, which will be released in the next weeks...
So, in other words: stay tuned for more.
Fabian Buhl has now bouldered 8C, climbed E9/10/8b+ trad and 8c+ multi-pitch. How many can match that?
But then again... what has he ever done on grit?
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Our Friday Night Video this week is of Federica Mingolla attempting the first female ascent of 'The Fish' on the Marmolada... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the first ascent of Ganesha, 8c multi pitch, on the Sonnwendwand at Loferer Steinplatte, Austria.... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made a winter solo ascent of Alexander Huber's Wetterbockwand at Hohee Göll. The hardest pitch of this... Read more