Kaz Watanabe repeats Eternal, 8C or 8C+

11th April, 2015

This has been read 6,156 times

Kazuma Watanabe on Yogigen, ~8B,(top part of Eternal) Hinokage, Japan © Saari Watanabe — Kazuma Watanabe on Yogigen, ~8B,(top part of Eternal) Hinokage, Japan
© Saari Watanabe

Kazuma Watanabe has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's Eternal at Hinokage, a problem Dai estimated to be around 8C or 8C+ when he did it two years ago.

Kaz says Eternal is a long boulder about, 30 moves for me. It links into the stand start Yogigen, an ~8B in its own right.

He did the stand start in December and then needed four more days of work to link from the low start.

As Dai was unsure about the grade, I asked Kaz about his opinion, but he said he really can't tell as he hasn't done many problems harder than 8B, making this ascent even more impressive.
He adds that he is really happy now, which is kinda understandable.

Kazuma Watanabe is sponsored by: Berghaus and Scarpa

This post has been read 6,156 times

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Comments

douwe

12 Apr, 2015

Dai seems to list Eternal as V15 on a list he recently published on his dairy. Interesting list if you are into that sort of thing.

stp

12 Apr, 2015

Wouldn't a 30 move problem in font get a traverse grade instead? I noticed on indoor walls problems of that length tend to get route grades these days which seems a more appropriate way of grading to me.

Björn Pohl - UKC

12 Apr, 2015

It's an interesting question. 30 moves is quite long. I think it's very difficult to draw an absolute line when it comes to number of moves. In this particular case many of the moves are very small changes of hand position and intermediate holds for example, perhaps not "real" moves so to speak. The problem is featured in the video Dai's Diaries Vol. 4.

mplaine

17 Apr, 2015

http://project-climbing.com/dvd4.html

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