Last weekend the IFSC European Bouldering Championship took place in Innsbruck, Austria and kicked off the 2015 international bouldering competition season. As usual, Innsbruck put on a show that didn't disappoint, with performances from the athletes that matched the high quality spectacle of the event. German couple Jan Hojer and Juliane Wurm both took home the title of European Champion in front of an enthusiastic crowd of thousands.
The top 20 athletes qualified for semi-finals, with just 6 climbers (7 on countback for the women) making it to the final round. In the women's event, the absence of non-European competitors such as Alex Puccio and Akiyo Noguchi - as well as Shauna Coxsey's withdrawal from the event due to injury - left the field fairly wide open, attracting fresh new talent from younger climbers making their senior bouldering debut. Austria's Jessica Pilz made finals in her first IFSC senior bouldering event, with some other young athletes narrowly missing out on finals.
Germany's current World Bouldering Champion Juliane Wurm stole the show and set the bar astonishingly high for the Bouldering World Cup series this year. Finishing top of the pack in the semis, confidently flashing the first two problems and making quick work of the third in the finals, Juliane had already won the competition before the last problem came around - a tricky slab which saw no successful ascent. Anna Stöhr was a close second, also managing to top 3 problems but seemingly lacking the confidence to flash them.
In the men's event, a mix of usual suspects combined with some newcomers made it through to finals. Italy's Stefan Scarperi put in a gutsy performance and amazed the crowd by completing the third problem and becoming the only man to do so, giving Adam Ondra and Jan Hojer a run for their money and knocking Jakob Schubert - who qualified in first place after semis - out of a podium finish. However, Jan stepped up his game on the powerful last problem to take the victory and add European Champion to his World Bouldering Cup title from last year. Adam Ondra took silver after battling a tough round of problems which didn't appear to suit him.
Britain's Dave Barrans and Leah Crane finished 18th and 20th respectively after making the semi-final round.
Results:
WOMEN
Rank | Name | Nation | Qualifying | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Juliane Wurm | GER | 3t7 5b6 | 3t6 3b6 | 3t4 4b4 |
2 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 5t5 5b5 | 3t7 4b6 | 3t7 4b8 |
3 | Katharina Saurwein | AUT | 4t4 5b5 | 2t3 3b4 | 1t1 3b3 |
4 | Monika Retschy | GER | 3t4 5b5 | 1t1 3b5 | 1t1 3b7 |
5 | Jessica Pilz | AUT | 4t6 5b6 | 2t3 2b2 | 1t2 2b3 |
6 | Mina Markovic | SLO | 4t10 4b8 | 1t1 2b2 | 1t7 2b8 |
7 | Fanny Gibert | FRA | 5t8 5b6 | 1t1 2b2 | 0t 2b6 |
8 | Charlotte Durif | FRA | 4t7 5b5 | 1t1 2b3 | |
9 | Julija Kruder | SLO | 4t9 4b5 | 1t1 2b5 | |
10 | Melissa Le Neve | FRA | 5t9 5b5 | 1t2 3b9 | |
11 | Anna Gallyamova | RUS | 5t10 5b6 | 1t2 3b12 | |
12 | Katharina Posch | AUT | 4t6 5b5 | 1t3 3b4 | |
13 | Hannah Midtboe | NOR | 3t3 5b7 | 1t3 3b6 | |
14 | Stasa Gejo | SRB | 5t7 5b5 | 1t3 3b11 | |
15 | Berit Schwaiger | AUT | 4t4 4b4 | 1t4 2b3 | |
16 | Dinara Fakhritdinova | RUS | 4t5 5b5 | 1t6 3b10 | |
17 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 5t5 5b5 | 0t 3b9 | |
18 | Mélanie Sandoz | FRA | 3t3 5b8 | 0t 2b2 | |
19 | Yulia Abramchuk | RUS | 3t7 4b5 | 0t 2b3 | |
20 | Leah Crane | GBR | 3t8 5b6 | 0t 2b8 |
MEN
Rank | Name | Nation | Qualifying | Semi's | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jan Hojer | GER | 4t14 4b13 | 1t1 2b2 | 2t3 4b5 |
2 | Adam Ondra | CZE | 5t8 5b6 | 2t9 4b12 | 2t6 3b10 |
3 | Stefan Scarperi | ITA | 3t3 4b5 | 1t2 2b5 | 1t5 2b6 |
4 | Jakob Schubert | AUT | 4t5 5b10 | 2t8 3b9 | 1t6 3b7 |
5 | Martin Stranik | CZE | 4t6 4b4 | 1t2 2b4 | 0t 4b11 |
6 | Alexey Rubtsov | RUS | 5t10 5b6 | 2t10 2b9 | 0t 4b16 |
7 | Michael Piccolruaz | ITA | 5t7 5b5 | 1t2 1b2 | |
8 | Alban LEVIER | FRA | 5t8 5b8 | 1t3 3b6 | |
9 | Jorg Verhoeven | NED | 5t8 5b8 | 1t4 2b11 | |
10 | Rustam Gelmanov | RUS | 5t7 5b7 | 1t4 1b4 | |
11 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | RUS | 4t4 5b5 | 1t5 2b8 | |
12 | MICKAEL MAWEM | FRA | 4t4 5b5 | 1t6 3b11 | |
13 | Stephane Hanssens | BEL | 4t14 4b11 | 1t6 2b11 | |
14 | Rolands Rugens | LAT | 4t7 5b11 | 1t9 2b10 | |
15 | Domen Skofic | SLO | 4t10 4b10 | 0t 3b11 | |
16 | Mathias Conrad | GER | 3t3 5b5 | 0t 2b4 | |
17 | Guillaume Glairon Mondet | FRA | 5t7 5b5 | 0t 1b3 | |
18 | David Barrans | GBR | 4t10 5b12 | 0t 1b6 | |
19 | Gregor Vezonik | SLO | 4t6 5b7 | 0t 1b7 | |
20 | Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor | POL | 4t12 4b11 | 0t 1b8 | |
23 | Ben West | GBR | 3t7 5b12 | ||
47 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | 2t3 2b3 | ||
55 | Matthew Cousins | GBR | 1t1 3b7 | ||
57 | Orrin Coley | GBR | 1t5 2b3 |
Full results here. Watch a replay of the finals below:
Comments