Following a very successful IFSC European Bouldering Championship just two weeks ago in Innsbruck, Austria, the World Cup tour kicked off in Toronto, Canada this weekend. In a competition which thoroughly shook the field and knocked out some top performers, Austria's Anna Stöhr and France's Alban Levier took Gold.
The surprises began in the qualification round where reigning World Cup winner and 2015 European Champion Jan Hojer of Germany finished out of the top 20 to lose out on a semi-final position in 27th place. In the semi-finals, a particularly tough group of technical problems from a team including British setters Percy Bishton and Jamie Cassidy saw habitual final-makers Jakob Schubert and Sean McColl fall short of the finals and make space for some newcomers. Alban Levier, Manuel Cornu and Jeremy Bonder of France were joined by Adam Ondra CZE, Jongwon Chon KOR, Kokoro Fujii JPN and Nathaniel Coleman USA.
20 year-old Alban Levier was on top form throughout the rounds and demonstrated outstanding composure on the technical final problems, including an impressive flash of the third slab boulder, which sealed his win before even touching the final problem. Nathaniel Coleman narrowly missed out on victory after failing to complete the final problem, but pushed Adam Ondra into third position after what appeared to be a frustrating round for him, with a few tries thrown away through mistakes.
In the women's event, Alex Puccio took the lead in the semi-final round, followed closely by current World and European Champion Juliane Wurm. Britain's Shauna Coxsey - having battled a finger injury in the weeks before the event - missed out on finals and finished in 9th place. The top six heading into finals were as follows: Alex Puccio USA, Juliane Wurm GER, Akiyo Noguchi JPN, Katharina Sauerwein AUT, Anna Stöhr AUT and Melissa le Neve FRA.
After a frustrating first problem which saw all but Juliane make the mistake of crossing over black tape onto an adjacent problem when matching the finishing hold, it was a close-knit battle between Juliane, Akiyo and Anna. Anna was the only woman to top the third problem, but the final problem decided the podium with Anna narrowly beating Akiyo into 2nd place and Juliane into 3rd. This made for Anna's 22nd World Cup victory.
This weekend (6th/7th June) will see the second round of the series in Vail, Colorado.
Watch a video of the finals below:
|1||Anna Stöhr||AUT||4t5 4b5||3t12 3b9||3t6 4b5|
|2||Akiyo Noguchi||JPN||5t6 5b6||3t6 4b6||3t7 4b7|
|3||Juliane Wurm||GER||5t7 5b7||3t5 4b5||2t2 4b5|
|4||Alex Puccio||USA||4t5 4b4||3t3 4b4||2t3 3b3|
|5||Katharina Saurwein||AUT||4t8 4b8||3t6 3b4||0t 3b10|
|6||Melissa Le Neve||FRA||4t4 4b4||2t4 4b7||0t 2b2|
|7||Miho NONAKA||JPN||5t8 5b7||2t4 3b5|
|8||Fanny Gibert||FRA||4t5 4b5||1t2 4b8|
|9||Shauna Coxsey||GBR||4t6 4b6||1t2 4b10|
|10||Julija Kruder||SLO||2t3 4b5||1t4 4b8|
|11||Petra Klingler||SUI||4t9 4b6||0t 4b7|
|12||Alex Johnson||USA||4t6 4b4||0t 4b13|
|13||Charlotte Durif||FRA||4t9 4b4||0t 3b5|
|14||Elsa PONZO||FRA||3t8 4b4||0t 3b6|
|15||Angela Payne||USA||3t4 3b3||0t 3b8|
|15||Mélanie Sandoz||FRA||3t3 4b4||0t 3b8|
|17||Margo Hayes||USA||4t8 4b4||0t 3b12|
|18||Sol Sa||KOR||4t7 4b4||0t 2b4|
|19||Aya ONOE||JPN||4t8 4b5||0t 2b5|
|20||Meagan Martin||USA||2t8 3b5||0t 2b9|
|21||Leah Crane||GBR||1t1 4b7|
|43||Diane Merrick||GBR||1t5 3b12|
|1||Alban LEVIER||FRA||4t7 5b13||2t3 3b4||3t6 4b5|
|2||Nathaniel Coleman||USA||3t4 4b5||2t5 3b5||3t9 4b8|
|3||Adam Ondra||CZE||4t10 5b8||2t3 3b10||2t3 3b3|
|4||Kokoro FUJII||JPN||4t6 4b4||2t3 2b2||2t4 3b3|
|5||Manuel Cornu||FRA||4t25 4b18||2t5 3b5||1t1 3b3|
|6||Jongwon CHON||KOR||5t10 5b9||2t3 2b2||1t3 2b3|
|7||Jeremy Bonder||FRA||4t6 4b6||2t3 3b4||0t 2b4|
|8||Andrzej Mecherzynski- Wiktor||POL||3t3 4b4||1t1 4b9|
|9||Mathias Conrad||GER||3t4 4b5||1t1 4b11|
|10||Guillaume Glairon Mondet||FRA||3t4 4b4||1t1 3b4|
|11||Jernej Kruder||SLO||4t9 5b11||1t1 3b7|
|11||Domen Skofic||SLO||4t13 4b12||1t1 3b7|
|13||Jakob Schubert||AUT||4t5 4b4||1t1 3b9|
|14||MICKAEL MAWEM||FRA||4t7 5b6||1t1 2b2|
|14||Yoshiyuki OGATA||JPN||4t8 4b6||1t1 2b2|
|14||Stefan Scarperi||ITA||3t3 4b4||1t1 2b2|
|17||Sean McColl||CAN||4t9 4b8||1t1 2b3|
|18||Alfons Dornauer||AUT||4t10 4b7||1t2 3b5|
|19||Rei SUGIMOTO||JPN||4t6 4b4||1t2 3b7|
|20||Jason Holowach||CAN||4t12 4b8||1t2 2b4|
|23||David Barrans||GBR||3t8 5b11|
|39||Louis Parkinson||GBR||1t1 3b8|
|45||Nathan Phillips||GBR||1t1 4b8|
|47||Ben West||GBR||1t4 3b6|
|59||Orrin Coley||GBR||1t6 3b7|
The 4th round of the 2015 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Haiyang, China this weekend, where Britain's Shauna Coxsey took...
The latest round of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup was held over the 20 and 21st of June in Chongqing, China. Japan's Akiyo...
The fifth round of the IFSC Lead World Cup took place at EICA Ratho near Edinburgh this weekend. For the first time in 14 years,... Read more
Cobra Crack in Squamish is infamous within knarly crack climbing circles. It's hosted a number of battles over the years, but... Read more