Emily Harrington on Golden GateFri Night Vid

Natalie Berry UKC

10th July, 2015

This has been read 12,671 times

Earlier this year, US climber Emily Harrington boldly listed her goals and ambitions for 2015: to reach the finals of the US Sport Climbing Nationals, complete an 8b+ sport project, free climb Golden Gate (5.13b) on El Capitan and summit Makalu (8463m) without oxygen.

Emily recently completed one of these goals by free climbing Golden Gate (5.13b). Having learned to trad climb just three years ago, Emily's ascent is all the more impressive.

This fantastic video by Jon Glassberg and Louder Than Eleven Productions follows her journey up the route, featuring plenty of emotion and the inevitable El Cap trio of blood, sweat and tears.

This post has been read 12,671 times

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Comments

jon

10 Jul, 2015

Great video. The filming and the amount of effort she puts in make the whole thing stand out for me. Intonation ascending at the end of EVERY sentence does annoy me (just a little) though.

Chris Craggs

10 Jul, 2015

Great vid - tough route and tough cookie! Chris

TobyA

10 Jul, 2015

Do you know, I was listening to an American radio programme earlier where they were discussing young women who up-speak, amongst other issues http://www.npr.org/2015/07/07/420627143/filmmaker-and-speech-pathologist-weigh-in-on-what-it-means-to-sound-gay and I didn't notice Emily doing it at all. But it's how many young women do speak so get over it! :) I thought it was an excellent film, I think Emily always comes over as a really interesting person in her films, as well as obviously a brilliant climber. Does anyone know how hard the offwidth pitches are on Golden Gate.

jon

10 Jul, 2015

Yes, I should have said, it was her boyfriend, not her.

Ian Parsons

10 Jul, 2015

< Does anyone know how hard the offwidth pitches are on Golden Gate.> The first one shown is the "Monster Offwidth" variation on the Salathé; it's actually part of the 1984 route "Bermuda Dunes" which was adopted by Alex Huber as a more do-able alternative to the adjacent original Salathé pitch (which itself goes free at 5.13b, I believe) and seems to have become the normal free route thereabouts. The 1993 Don Reid topo has the offwidth at 5.10d, while a more recent SuperTopo offers 5.11a - with the traverse from the belay atop The Ear to actually get to it rating 5.11d. The Chickenwing Chimney, higher up on the Heart section of the route, seems to get 5.11a; not sure whether this is the pitch marked "5.9" on an old Heart topo, or whether it actually involves the old A3 section above it.

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