UKC

IFSC Lead World Cup: Stavanger

© IFSC

The fourth round of the 2015 IFSC Lead World Cup was held for the first time ever in Norway last weekend - in the city of Stavanger. In the women's event, Slovenia's Mina Markovic took Gold for the third time this year and Gautier Supper of France took home his second Gold of the season so far. 

Women's Podium: Pilz, Markovic and Verhoeven  © IFSC
Women's Podium: Pilz, Markovic and Verhoeven
© IFSC

Young Jessica Pilz of Austria was hot on the heels of Markovic as she matched her highpoint in the finals, coming second on countback after resorting to semi-final scores. 18 year-old Anak Verhoeven of Belgium placed third - making up for her disappointment in Imst after slipping off early on in the finals.

Markovic currently leads the overall women's standings with Pilz and Korea's Jain Kim in close competition in second and third position. 

Jain Kim of Korea in Stavanger  © IFSC
Jain Kim of Korea in Stavanger
© IFSC

In the men's event, Gautier Supper's dynamic climbing style suited the moves on the bouldery final route, which saw some seasoned competitors fall disappointingly early. Czech climber Adam Ondra took second place, followed by Supper's teammate Romain Desgranges in third - fresh from his first World Cup win in Imst just three weeks ago.

Men's Podium: Ondra, Supper and Desgranges  © IFSC
Men's Podium: Ondra, Supper and Desgranges
© IFSC

The men's overall standings will be hotly contested in the coming events as the top four positions are separated by just a few points. Supper and Desgranges head the leaderboard with Jakob Schubert of Austria and Ondra following close behind.

Gautier Supper on his way to a win in Stavanger  © IFSC
Gautier Supper on his way to a win in Stavanger
© IFSC

There were no British competitors taking part in this round. The next IFSC event is the World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy next week. For the first time ever, the youth competitors will be competing across all three disciplines - Lead, Boulder and Speed.

Watch a replay of the finals below:

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Stavanger (NOR) 2015

MENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Gautier Supper FRA Top 1. 52 43+
2 Adam Ondra CZE Top 1. 49+ 40+
3 Romain Desgranges FRA Top 1. 55+ 39+
4 Jakob Schubert AUT Top 1. 49+ 36+
5 Stefano Ghisolfi ITA Top 1. 49+ 35+
6 Francesco Vettorata ITA Top 1. 49+ 34+
7 Domen Skofic SLO Top 1. 52+ 29+
8 Sebastian Halenke GER Top 1. 51 23
9 Magnus Midtboe NOR 36 14. 46+  
10 Ramón Julian Puigblanque ESP Top 1. 46+  
11 Urban Primozic SLO Top 1. 46+  
12 Loïc Timmermans BEL 33 17. 46+  
13 Sean McColl CAN Top 1. 46  
14 Thomas JOANNES FRA 32 20. 45+  
15 Max Rudigier AUT Top 1. 44+  
16 Christoph Hanke GER 32+ 18. 43+  
17 Thomas Ballet FRA 35+ 15. 43  
18 Mikhail Chernikov RUS 32+ 18. 43  
19 Marcello Bombardi ITA 36+ 13. 41+  
20 Mario Lechner AUT 30 22. 31+  
Full results

WOMENs lead

Rank Name Nation Qual' Semi's Final
1 Mina Markovic SLO Top 1. Top 57+
2 Jessica Pilz AUT Top 1. 42+ 57+
3 Anak VERHOEVEN BEL Top 1. Top 55+
4 Jain Kim KOR Top 1. Top 39
5 Hélène Janicot FRA Top 1. 42+ 37+
6 Tjasa KALAN SLO Top 1. 42 37+
7 Risa OTA JPN 47+ 11. 41+ 37+
8 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 47+ 11. 42+ 36+
9 Mathilde Becerra FRA 47+ 11. 41  
10 Ottilia Kajsa Rosen SWE Top 1. 39+  
11 Evgeniya Malamid RUS 45+ 18. 39+  
12 Katharina Posch AUT Top 1. 39+  
13 Rebekka Stotz SUI 47+ 11. 39+  
14 Julia Chanourdie FRA Top 1. 37+  
15 Katherine Choong SUI 42+ 21. 36+  
16 Aya ONOE JPN 47+ 11. 36  
17 Alizée DUFRAISSE FRA 47+ 11. 35+  
18 Christine Schranz AUT 42 25. 35  
19 Magdalena Röck AUT 47+ 11. 29+  
20 Jenny Lavarda ITA Top 1. 29+  
Full results

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24 Aug, 2015
Someone should do an interview with him asking what he's switched up in his training... hint hint!
24 Aug, 2015
Supper attributes his improvement this year to moving towns and training in a different gym. Definitely interesting to see how they do on rock - comp routes are quite different (less cruxy) and results to a certain extent involve quite a bit of luck too. For instance it looked like Ondra used a different harder looking sequence than the others at this event so perhaps just down to misreading the route rather than being less strong. But all the top lead climbers seem to be at 9a+ or 9b level so I imagine they'd do pretty well. Supper is off to try Biographie next week. I think Ondra is going to back to Flatanger.
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